Lee Ness offer his personal Guide to Visiting Padstow, Cornwall’s showpiece harbour Town.
Cornwall (Kernow) is one of the six Celtic Nations and retains its own flag, language and anthem. It is also one of the most beautiful places to visit in England with its stunning coastline and beautiful harbours, towns and villages. In Cornwall, Padstow has it all – fantastic walks, beaches, a food-lovers paradise and a beautiful harbour.
The attraction for Padstow for us is how dog-friendly it is, but whether you have dogs yourself or not, there are plenty of walks along stunning coastlines and beaches that vary wildly. We always book a cottage as there is so much choice and, although we have never stayed in the same place twice, we have always found something perfect. Prices aren’t cheap as Padstow is very popular, but it’s worth it.
Things to do when Visiting Padstow
Much of the beauty of Padstow is the scenery; the harbour, the coastline, the river camel and the local shops, stores and cafes. There are plenty of foodie options in Padstow with both Rick Stein’s and Paul Ainsworth’s establishments everywhere, complemented by lots of other excellent places to eat. You can read more about this in my guide to the best food in Padstow.
But, the outside of the restaurants, there are obvious place to start; the Cornish Pastie and the Cornish Cream Tea.
There are many award winning Cornish Pasty stores in Padstow, but arguably the most famous was The Chough Bakery on the main street facing the harbour. This site has been recently taken over by Malcolm Barnecutt. The Cornish Pasty has a Protected Geographical Indication status, like Champagne! A Cornish Pasty is a meal in its own right and should be eaten warm and from end to end in the true Cornish way. If you want to stray from tradition there are many different fillings for the pasties with both gluten-free and non-meat versions. But, if you can, try a traditional Cornish Pasty. You won’t regret it.
The Cornish Cream Tea is a warm split scone with a spread of jam (usually strawberry) and clotted cream on top. It is always ‘jam first’ in Cornwall, unlike a Devon Cream tea which is cream first. Wars have been fought over the correct way so be sure to spread jam first when you’re in Cornwall.
Walking in and around Padstow
There are a variety of routes from the harbour in Padstow that lead to beautiful walks that take in the beaches, the scenery and this incredible, beautiful coast line.
The South West Coast Path to Harlyn Bay
The South West Coastal Path passes through Padstow and can be followed in either direction. This walk heads north up to St Saviour’s Point War Memorial monument through Chapel Style Field overlooking Padstow Harbour. The route follows the coastline for 3 miles to the stone tower on the headland at Stepper Point, where you can take in the view across the bay to Polzeath bay.
From here, you can continue to follow the coast south for around 3 ½ miles to Harlyn Bay. Continuing on along the coast is definitely worth the walk and there is a bus service back to Padstow from Harlyn Bay. If you have worked up an appetite and have the wallet, The Pig at Harlyn Bay is worth a visit before you return, or sit outside in The Lobster Shed at The Pig to enjoy very fresh, locally caught lobster.
Beach Walk to Hawker’s Cove
In the same direction, but at low tide after around quarter of a mile along the coastal path, there is a short drop down to St George’s cove, and a walk all the way to the old lifeboat launch (now converted to a residence) at Hawker’s Cove. This is around 1 ½ miles of walking along the beach in each direction. There are wonderful views across the Camel Estuary.
The Camel Trail to Bodmin and Wadebridge
Heading south from the harbour is Camel Trail. This is a wonderful, flat walking and cycling route along the old disused North Cornwall Railway Line. The Camel Trail is split into three, roughly 5 ½ mile sections. The first from Padstow to Wadebridge, the second from Wadebridge to Bodmin and then the third from Bodmin to Wenfordbridge. It is an easy walk, but it is definitely worth hiring a cycle and riding the whole distance.
There are plenty of options including trailers for children or dogs (or both). There are plenty of viewpoints and stops along the way to make a whole day of the ride. Take a break in Wadebridge at Seasmiths Fish and Chips or The Swan Hotel before heading on to The Camel Trail Tea Garden in Boscarne, just before Bodmin for a sneaky local cider or a Cornish Cream Tea.
The South West Coast Path to Polzeath
The South West Coastal Path stops at Padstow and crosses the Camel to pick up again at Rock. The very regular Black Tor Ferry from Padstow Harbour to Rock runs every 15 minutes every day of the year at a cost of £3 per person to cross. Once across, head north. At low tide, almost the entirety of the walk can be done along the beach, but the South West Coast path follows the coast and can be picked up at regular points along the walk.
The coast path is a little more hilly but has excellent views across the Camel and out to the Doom Bar (the sand bank that makes entry through the Camel Estuary so hazardous). However, walking for miles along a beach is always our favourite, especially with the dogs.
After two miles, Daymer Bay beach is a lovely place to stop and has a small cafe, although this is not open year round. Continuing on for another 2 miles takes you to Polzeath, a surfers beach with lots of cafes and bars overlooking the bay where you can watch the surf and take a break on the balcony at The Waterfront or TJs Cafe and Bar before the walk back.
A New Year Celebration
We spent a wonderful New Year’s Eve this year in Padstow. We enjoyed a couple of hours in The Tasting Rooms in the late afternoon in The Old Post Office. This is owned by The Padstow Brewing Co, so a great way to sample authentic local beer. On New Years eve there was a live band playing to complement the wonderful beer, bought in ⅓ pint taster flights. We then transferred to The Shipwrights overlooking the harbour for a meal and to enjoy the rest of the evening.
After our meal, we joined the whole town assembled outside for a wonderful fireworks display over the harbour at midnight to see in the New Year. The harbour fireworks is an annual event and this is the third time we have stayed to see it. The boats in the harbour are decorated with lights and the whole event is magical, with the fireworks reflecting off the water.
Tell me more about Visiting Padstow.
For more details on Lee’s guide to visiting Padstow please go to the Padstow Tourist Information Centre site.
Visit Cornwall has more information about the county.
Recommended places to eat and sleep
There are many places to stay in Padstow, from AirBnB to cottages or campsites nearby. All can be found in the Padstow Tourist Information Centre site.
Lobster Shed at The Pig Harlyn Bay
