Dallas Burger London. Britain’s Finest Beef Patty Arrives In Shoreditch

Anthea Gerrie eats at Dallas Burger London and Tastes An Even Better Burger Than Those She Has Enjoyed In Decades Of Devouring America’s Favourite Fast Food In Its Homeland.

You’d be forgiven for thinking Dallas Burger, the latest addition to the Shoreditch dining scene, originated in Texas, or at least another American region famous for great beef.

But Lisbon? It is indeed the Portuguese capital where what must be the finest beefburger in Europe and perhaps the world was developed before choosing London as the next destination on its journey to international expansion.

Like the coolest spots in Berlin, which never brag their presence to the uninitiated, the brand name appears in much smaller letters on the window than the anonymous Burger Joint signage across the top of a small storefront on Shoreditch High Street which seats 48 at tables and booths but feels rather more intimate. This was previously a pub, and that’s intentional, says founder Pierre d’Adrimont, explaining: “We always look for characterful neighbourhood spaces that we can breathe life into.” In this case, by adding pleasing but unobtrusive mid-century touches and Portugese tiles which subtly acknowledge the joint’s origins.

Pierre opened the first Dallas Burger in Lisbon in 2019, following a trip to New York which persuaded him that a no-nonsense restaurant where it was all about the main event would play well – as it went on to do across five neighbourhoods in Portugal. And with its own strong sense of neighbourhood and a cosmopolitan population, Shoreditch seemed like the place to strike out in Britain, where the premium burger had a big moment a decade or so ago before the fad for uber-meaty restaurants died back.

So, in case the collective carnivore appetite really has diminished, Dallas Burger comes with vegan options, while the beef itself is supplied by a butcher holding a royal warrant who claims to source its beef from the top one per cent available in Britain. The burger is a pretty substantial 165g patty dressed in a choice of three different ways, and served on one of the few brioche buns which does not fall apart when you pick it up(though given the juiciness of all that lies within, eventually you’re glad of the sharp knife and fork provided).

For vegans Paul Rhodes, a Michelin-starred baker who has worked under Pierre Koffman, has created a bun which owes its richness to oat milk, and any of the carnivore options can be substituted with a plant-based version. I went for a Chipotle Burger(£13), which packed the patty with caramelised onions, cheddar and jalapeños, and was glad I had ordered a little side of the chipotle sauce(£1.50). It boosted the smoky flavour which did not come through without the extra sauce as much as I would have hoped, though the meat, cheese and onions made for a super-juicy, utterly delicious eat.

Hand-cut skinny fries are served in portions large enough for two to share, both plain(£4) and loaded£6.50), which I could not resist, having read that Alpine raclette cheese was involved in the melty topping along with cheddar, bacon, chives and more pickled jalapeños which should have been more finely chopped, given the spicy heat they exuded.

Coleslaw(£4), made with red cabbage as well as white, was particularly good – crisp and fresh, also enough for two, and beneath the sides a surprisingly detailed description of the beef whetted the appetite for the main event to come: “Our beef is grass-fed, sourced from areas of outstanding natural beauty in the British Isles where animals are ethically reared in clean, natural environments.” Supplied, as they add, by royal warrant holders Aubrey Allen.

This is one burger joint which comes with plenty of options for washing the food down, from canned cocktails and a mezcal-enriched home-made cold brew to interesting non-alcoholic drinks – and for me, the perfect accompaniment, a craft pilsner(choice of three from Deya on draft, all £6.90 per pint, £3.50 for a half).

Dallas Burger London must imagine itself in the USA, where marijuana is legal in so many states, when it lists a dessert the stoned would die for. The ice-cream cookie(£5.50) sandwiches vanilla

Ice-cream between two dark chocolate chip cookies with a peanut crust – and yes, this too, is available in a vegan version. But with the rest of the day to navigate I had to resist tasting it; one more reason, if any were needed beyond the exceptional burger itself, to return to Shoreditch.