Andy Mossack visits Bardonecchia in summer and discovers an alpine gem nestled amongst soaring peaks in Italy’s Piedmont region.
No one said it would be this much fun, but Bardonecchia’s Alpine Coaster was such a fast ride I had to have another go. Not quite the Olympic Luge, but you get the general idea. A drop of over 1,000 metres around forest firs and switch back turns is just the ticket to banish any hint of elevation lethargy.
Just 50 miles and a 90-minute direct train from Turin, Bardonecchia (nicknamed Bardo to those in the know) is an alpine resort that has flown well under the radar for many of us. Yet, in Italy it is considered the go-to Alpine resort for families in winter and summer.
It’s a personal mission for me to promote ski resorts in the summer months. It’s an opportunity missed for so many people. The snow is the only winter thing you’ll find missing, along with less crowds of course. Instead, you get the benefit of all the on-site facilities including the mountain lifts to enjoy incredible alpine scenery draped in summer sunshine.
The slopes transform into a haven for hikers, bikers and golfers. the meadows and forests are ablaze with flora and fauna, and the valleys echo with clanking bells from grazing cows.
Bardonecchia is an historic mountain town perched 1,300 metres above sea level nestling in the heart of the Susa Valley, one of the longest valleys in the Alps. Lying at the confluence of four smaller valleys and just a kilometre or so from the French border, the town prospered playing an important strategic role for the Susa region.
More recently it enjoyed a global stage hosting all the boarding events in the 2006 winter Olympics.
It was late by the time I arrived by train up from Turin. Fortunately, Harald’s Bar & Restaurant was still open and welcomed me with open arms and a much-needed dinner service. It’s the main watering hole in Campo Smith, the beating heart of the residential area with hotels and apartments just a few steps from the chair lifts.
It’s also the home of the town’s outdoor attractions; mountain bike rentals (including electric versions), the aforementioned Alpine Coaster, climbing wall and the Adventure Park – a treetop assault course with platforms, rope bridges and zip lines.
Bardonecchia’s main sights.
I was eager to explore the magnificent peaks of course, but first up was Bardo’s history, culture and influence within the Susa Valley, a heritage dating back some 6,000 years. There’s two parts; the old town, the Borgo Vecchio, and the modern section, the Borgo Nuovo. The Vecchio is full of narrow streets and squares and dominated by the Church of St. Hippolytus with its two bell towers. The Romanesque left side tower was the only surviving part of the original Santa Maria church which had previously stood here. The old fountain which stands in the square in front dates back to 1651.
A must visit is the Ethnographic Museum (Museu Etino Grafico) which was the former town hall. The ground floor shows examples of traditional local clothing worn in the village as far back as the 18th century. Upstairs is given over to exhibits of tools and equipment dating back hundreds of years. See if you can spot the ancient clothes peg!
If you’re in the old town late morning, you’ll no doubt see queues of locals in two specific places. One is the town baker and the other is a small outdoor farming cooperative selling fresh vegetables from a tiny alley between two houses. A snapshot of authentic village life.
A short stroll brings you to the new town and the legendary Patisserie Ugetti at 80 Via Medail, a Bardo favourite since 1882. Its patisseries, chocolates and ice cream revered by locals, none more so than their famous Krapfen donuts!
Melezet
The tiny neighbouring hamlet of Melezet is now considered part of Bardo and contains a couple of extraordinary places worth visiting. Inside the ancient Madonna del Carmine Chapel built in 1647 lies the Museum of Alpine Religious Art, a collection of over 300 precious objects uncovered in churches and chapels all over the valley. They range from wooden carvings and goldsmithing to paintings and textiles.
They rotate the collection every year depending on the theme. It’s an exceptional mish mash of all kinds of things from the 15th to 19th centuries. I spotted an ancient wooden church door from the 1500s left on the floor resting against a wall. Quite extraordinary.
Just a little further on inside Melezet Church you find some outstanding examples of the traditional Melezet Grape Clusters carvings, (Grappola de Melezet) exquisite wooden carvings of grapes and fruit made by the carving masters of the village. And just opposite is the School of Wood Carving and Sculpture, founded in the 1950s by Professor Giuseppe Pognantea. A wonderful tribute to the ancient village tradition, 30 students of all ages are taught the skill of traditional wood carving. Inside I met Elizabeth and Carlo, master craftspeople who volunteer their time to teach their crafting skills in the evenings.
In the Great Outdoors
Over the summer season there are many hiking trails to explore here from simple strolls to challenging treks. Simply jump on a chair lift at Campo Smith and you can be up on the mountain pastures in no time taking in the larch and pinewood lined trails.
A great easy example is the loop trail from the Pian del Sole restaurant right next to the chair lift station to the Alpeggio Clos alpine dairy farm. You can watch the farm animals grazing, buy some farm-fresh cheese and butter and then enjoy a great lunch back at the restaurant. The trail also takes you past the N.D. du Coignet Chapel.
One of the most popular hikes is to Largo Verde – the green lake and for this one you have to cross over into France! The old border crossing at Pian del Colle is just a couple of kilometres from Melezet, and the trail starts at the beautiful Valle Stretta.
Even though this is just a short walk, it has forest, meadows, some steep rocky inclines and panoramic views of Mount Tabor and Grand Seru. The lake is stunningly green courtesy of a carpet of algae and aquatic moss.
Alpine Golf at Sestrieres
One of the wonders of visiting mountain resorts in summer is the chance to play golf on some extraordinary golf courses that are open for a just a few months of the year. Despite the short season, the quality of the courses is often remarkable. I have very fond memories of playing golf in Verbier and The Vercors Massif In Isere in particular.
Because of the elevation the air is thinner so golf balls travel further, plus the rugged mountain terrain presents golfing challenges light years away from parkland or links courses.
So hearing that neighbouring Sestrieres (a very popular winter ski destination almost 1,000 metres higher than Bardo) has an 18 hole course, I jumped at the chance to play it. Golf Club Sestrieres was established way back in 1932 almost 100 years ago, and it remains relatively unchanged.
Don’t be fooled by the length because it’s a short course, just 6,669 metres, with 8 par 3’s, 9 par 4’s and only 1 par 5. It may be short but trust me, it was very very tricky with slopes and run-offs everywhere, so every shot needed to be plotted carefully. And of course there was the backdrop of some jaw dropping mountain vistas.
Italy’s Hidden Gem
Bardonecchia in Summer proved to be an absolute delight. As did the few hours I spent in Turin before my return home. There is no doubt this is a sensational destination for families. There was so much to do for kids to enjoy, speaking of which, on my second ride on the Alpine Coaster I didn’t use the brake once.
Just saying.
Images (C) Bardonecchia Tourism and Andy Mossack.
Tell me more about Bardonecchia in Summer
Please visit Bardonecchia Tourism for more information on the places highlighted in the feature and more about the resort and the region.
Residence Campo Smith: Apartments and hotels right next to the chair lift station.
2026 Summer Season Prices
For the full list of pricing for all the summer activities and lift passes please visit Bardo Summer Tickets.
Museum of Alpine Religious Art
Recommended Restaurants
Harald’s Bar & Restaurant: Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Excellent menus, great quality food and a party vibe.
Pian del Sole: Excellent restaurant up on the slopes by the chair lift station. Fantastic views from the beautiful terrace.
Ristorante Caropepe: Right in the heart of Bardonecchia’s Borgo Nuovo. The emphasis is on excellent Sicilian cuisine.
Airport Parking with award-winning APH
Airport Parking and Hotels (APH) offers a wide range of parking and overnight hotel stays at all major UK airports. One week of Meet & Greet airport parking at London Stansted costs from just £69.99. For the latest prices and to book, call 01342 859442
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