Rupert Parker Gets High In His Insider Guide To The Tatra Mountains in Slovakia
Although smaller than the Alps, the High Tatras in Slovakia pack an incredible variety of landscapes into a compact area. This makes them an ideal destination for hikers of all experience levels. Whether you’re planning a gentle lakeside walk or a challenging ascent into the high mountains, there’s unforgettable scenery at every turn.
In fact they’re among Europe’s most spectacular mountain hiking destinations. Think dramatic granite peaks, crystal-clear alpine lakes, well-maintained hiking trails, and a network of historic mountain huts that have welcomed adventurers for generations. Since they’re in a protected national park with delicate alpine ecosystems, visitors must respect the rules and carry all their rubbish back with them.
And they’re popular with locals. At weekends families, often with fathers carrying babies on their backs, set out to do serious hiking together. In the mountain huts and restaurants, tables are full, as people tuck into the local Slovak delicacies. It’s rare to hear English spoken here, but hotel and restaurant staff are always fairly fluent.
Day 1 Skalnaté Pleso to Veľká Svišťovka
Unlike the rest of Europe, the Tatras have had a cool summer and my first day is no exception. There’s cloud hugging the mountains as I take the cable car from Tatranská Lomnica, where I’m staying, up to Skalnaté Pleso. At an elevation of 1,346 metres, this picturesque glacial lake is surrounded by mountain peaks, sadly now in the mist.
Above me is Lomnický štít, Slovakia’s second-highest mountain, invisible today, but my destination is Veľká Svišťovka at 2,037 metres. The well-marked trail climbs steadily over rocky terrain and there are occasional glimpses into the valley below. It starts to rain heavily, the wind picks up and the temperature drops.
After around an hour, I reach the saddle, Sedlo pod Svišťovkou, but decide not to climb up to Veľká Svišťovka. Apparently, on a clear day, there are panoramic views over the valleys of the High Tatras, the forests below and the distant Low Tatras beyond. At the moment, visibility is near zero so I retrace my steps and take the cable car back down where it’s warm and dry. It’s a warning that you should never underestimate the mountains.
Day 2 Štrbské Pleso to Popradské Pleso
The railway, running along the base of the mountains, has frequent trains to Štrbské Pleso. It’s a pleasant ride and, since the cloud has cleared, I skirt the lake and take the chairlift to the upper slopes of Predné Solisko, at 1840 metres. For the first time I’m rewarded with sweeping views across the High Tatras and the plains below. A short trail leads to the summit but I’ve no time to linger.
After taking the chairlift back down to the lake shore, I set out for Popradské Pleso. The well-marked route follows a gently ascending forest path through fragrant pine woods. Occasional openings in the trees reveal glimpses of the granite peaks rising high above the valley.
After around an hour’s walk, the forest gives way to the beautiful glacial lake of Popradské Pleso, at almost 1,500 metres, sitting beneath the imposing walls of Ostrva and other surrounding peaks. Lunch is beside the lake at the welcoming Horský Hotel Popradské Pleso, where I enjoy a traditional Slovak garlic soup. From here it’s around an hour on the road down to the train station.
Day 3 Hrebienok to Téryho Chata and return
Again I start with the train to Starý Smokovec, then it’s a ride on the historic funicular to Hrebienok, 1,285 metres. 10 minutes downhill from here is Bilíkova chata, the mountain hut where I’ll be spending the night. I leave my bag and hit the trail.
The path winds through pine forest passing waterfalls tumbling over polished granite rocks. The most spectacular is Obrovský Vodopád (Giant’s Waterfall). Wooden bridges cross the stream, and the trail becomes progressively steeper as it enters the heart of the valley. A welcome rest spot at Zamkovského chata at 1475 metres helps me prepare for the next challenging section.
I climb upwards in the forest then emerge to a rock face called Vieľký Hank (Great Slope. I’m surrounded by towering cliffs, rocky buttresses and glacial scenery shaped during the last Ice Age. A series of step zigzags eventually lead to Téryho chata, at 2,015 metres. The mountain hut, first opened in 1899, is one of the highest in the High Tatras, and provides a welcome lunch.
The return journey follows the same route back through the Malá Studená Valley, offering fresh perspectives on the waterfalls and mountain scenery. At least it’s mainly downhill and there’s excellent cold beer back at Bilíkova chata. I’m also pleased to discover that I won’t be sharing a dormitory as is usual in mountain huts, but have a room to myself.
Few destinations combine natural beauty, accessible hiking, and rich mountain traditions as successfully as Slovakia’s High Tatras. Summer brings lush green forests and colourful wildflowers, while autumn transforms the hillsides into vibrant shades of gold, orange, and red. And, best of all, prices are far lower than their alpine equivalents, making the region incredibly good value.
Tell Me More About Insider Guide To The Incredible Tatra Mountains, Slovakia
Wizzair flies direct to Poprad from London Luton, then it’s a short train ride to Tatranská Lomnica.
Thameslink runs fast and frequent trains to Luton Airport Parkway, up to eight times per hour, with direct routes through Central London including Farringdon for connections onto the Elizabeth Line and St Pancras International.
Enjoy Tatras has information about the mountains.
Grandhotel Praha Tatranská Lomnica makes for a luxurious base in art nouveau style.
Bilíkova chata is a comfortable mountain hut, close to the trails, with good food.
Reštaurácia Stará Mama in Tatranská Lomnica serves Slovak Specialities
Humno Tatry has excellent meat cooked on hot stones.
