Rupert Parker Enjoys Sea Views From Salut Maroc In The Heart Of Essaouira’s Ancient Medina.
Essaouira, the tiny walled city, clinging to the edge of the Atlantic, has long been one of Morocco’s best kept secrets. Orson Welles filmed his Hamlet here and the 1960’s attracted rock stars like Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger. These days, it’s attracting international tourists looking for something different. In the heart of the Medina, right by the sea, Salut Maroc is definitely destination in its own right.
The hotel is the dream project of British owner, Helen Howat, who bought the building in 2012 when it was an empty shell. She was attracted by its position, at the edge of the ramparts, with the deep blue sea beyond, and set about creating her unique vision. It took five years for it to become a reality as she scoured the world for antique furniture and employed local artisans to craft the interiors.
Nothing was too much trouble and such was her attention to detail, that she even designed all the textiles. What she created is a riot of colour, yet still tasteful, matching the beat of the city’s heart. Even the bathrooms became destinations in themselves, retro luxury yet completely functional.
Each of 11 unique rooms and suites are strikingly different and are themed to match destinations in Morocco. They offer a truly contemporary take on Moroccan design yet drawing on traditional artisanal skills of local craftsmen. The result is a fusion of Islamic patterns and vibrant colours, a vibrant stage for her collection of contemporary and antique furniture.
You enter through blue doors to an enchanting tiled courtyard, serving as the reception area. Above, a cobalt blue nest of painted balconies open up to the sky. On one side is a relaxation space kittled out with cushions and tables. There’s a private Hamman, beautiful tiled, where you can escape the hustle and bustle of the souk.
Although the interiors feel they’ve been here for centuries, they’re all in fact entirely new as the building was derelict. Multi-coloured steps lead up a narrow stairway to sumptuous landings where doors open to rooms and suites. Each bathroom has a large copper bath tub, hammered by artisans in Marrakech, and the fittings are traditional brass. Special mention must be made of the Thomas Crapper Toilet, “The Venerable” with varnished wooden seat.
We stayed on the second floor in two different suites. Our first was Tangier. “Looking out to Sea” with private seating area, king sized bed, private bathroom and copper bath tub. Above the bed there was an Orientalist mural depicting Moroccan subjects looking out to sea. The large floor to ceiling windows open out to this sea view and the ramparts. Sunset are to die for and the sounds of the waves ensured a peaceful sleep
Our second suite, Casablanca “Mosaic Trellis”, also came with a king sized bed, private bathroom and copper bath tub. The textiles, as in all rooms were unique, this time in sumptuous yellow. It also had its own private salon lined with the entrance wall a wealth of traditional mosaic tile patterns. The period chairs, chest and tables were particularly striking.
The rooftop is devoted to drinking and dining, with stunning sea views, fresh Atlantic breezes and exquisite sunsets. The restaurant occupies a number of levels, usually open air, although there is an interior space in case of rain. It’s a special place for breakfast with freshly pressed orange juice, traditional Moroccan bread and pastries, served with a selection of local preserves. There’s also porridge, yoghurt, fruit and Berber omelettes.
The lunch and dinner menu features fresh charcoal grilled fish and local produce, all organic. The Moroccan chef has been here since the beginning and features international dishes, together more traditional dishes like couscous, pastillas and tagines. In the evening there’s live music, although it finishes early so sleep is not disturbed.
In the alley outside the hotel are the ramparts, lined with cannons, and beyond is the Atlantic. Street sellers ply their wares here and narrow streets lead into the heart of the Medina, a matter of minutes away. You’ll find the local market here and an assortment of restaurants.
A 15 minute walk takes you to Essaouira‘s fishing port where you watch fishermen unload their catch. Buy some of their fish and have it cooked to perfection at one of the many stalls nearby. Just beyond is the long sandy beach, shallow and safe for swimming with surfers at the far end.
It’s easy to settle into the gentle rhythm of the Medina, your day broken up by a series of exotic Moroccan meals and ending with the stunning sunsets from the rooftop. Even better leave the shutters open at night and descend into a deep sleep nourished by sounds of the waves. Salut Maroc is a very special place in a very special city.
Tell Me More About Salut Maroc, Essaouira, Morocco
Salut Maroc. Rue Ibn Rochd, Kasbah, 44000 Essaouira Morocco.
T: (+212) 524475560 (+212) 648696510
Rooms at Salut Maroc start from 180€ based on two adults sharing and include breakfast.
