Rupert Parker tackles the first stages of the Saffron Trail across Essex.
The Saffron Trail is a long-distance trail running across Essex, from Saffron Walden to Southend in seven relatively easy stages. In Saxon times the settlement at the start of the trail was just plain old “Weala-denu” (“Valley of the Britons”) which had been shorted to Walden by the time the Normans arrived. The Saffron bit comes in later when they began to grow the saffron crocus and by the early 1500’s it became Saffron Walden.
In 1514, Henry VIII granted the town a charter, decorated with the saffron crocus, showing how important the plant was to the town. The town became rich, and images of the crocus and saffron can still be seen decorating buildings, including the parish church, which is the largest in Essex, completed in 1525.
After its peak in the 16th century, the growing of saffron here gradually declined due to the hugely labour-intensive process required to harvest the plant. Recently, saffron growers have begun to return to the area. Authentic Essex-grown saffron is in demand for its historical reputation, and it can sell for £75 a gram in top London establishments – three times the price of gold.
The Saffron Trail runs through a delightfully rural Essex, particularly in the northern sections, using old bridleways, some quiet roads and tracks, joining up villages and hamlets. The sheer number of large churches is a reminder of how populated this area has been over the centuries – something that’s hard to believe today, given the few people I encounter on my walk.
The trail starts at the impressive church of St Mary the Virgin, its spire rising up to 59m, the tallest in Essex. I negotiate a network of lanes passing the King Edward VI Almshouses, the main buildings dating from 1834 and still in use today. Soon I’m on the outskirts of the grounds of Audley End, a large early 17th-century country house and I’m stumbling around trying to find signage.
I press on turning down Rookery Lane, an ancient greenway and buzzards circle ahead. I’m soon in a patchwork of wild woods and open farmland, following rough tracks and paths along field edges. It’s mainly flat so easy going and soon reach another St Mary’s Church, this time in the tiny hamlet of Widdington, population just 504. Here Prior’s Hall Barn is one of the finest surviving medieval barns in eastern England, dating back to the mid-15th century, with a crown post roof, the product of some 400 oaks.
The path takes me through Prior’s Wood, home to sparrow hawks and my day’s destination of Henham. There’s another St Mary’s here, dating from the 13th century, and opposite is the Cock Inn believed to have been built in the early 1700s. I rest my weary legs and enjoy a well-deserved pint.
The next day starts beautifully sunny and, leaving the church, I pass the placid Henham Reservoir before entering Uttlesford’s Hawland Wood. I emerge at Chickney, with another St Mary’s Church, this time from the 10th century. The path then follows the Broadwater Valley, nothing more than a stream, and I’m joined by planes above making their approach to Stansted Airport.
This section is more hilly than the previous day and I climb up past the ruins of Tirty Abbey. Apart from a few piles of stone, the only building remaining is the chapel, now another St Mary’s Church. The mill here dates from the early 18th century but I press on, across wide fields to Great Easton. This time the church is dedicated to St John and St Giles and is Norman in design, on the site of an older Saxon church.
Little Easton Manor has peacocks in the grounds and another large St Mary’s Church in the village which held over 200 worshippers in the 19th century. I’m now on the edges of Great Dunmow and the path is diverted by a huge housing development. I thread my way through the outskirts of the market town and reach the Doctor’s Pond, with anglers on its banks. The name comes from the time when it was a breeding ground for leeches used by doctors who lived nearby.
Great Dunmow is bustling, quite the largest town since Saffron Walden, and it’s where my walk comes to an end. Although another five sections of the Saffron trail stretch before me, all the way to Southend, I’ve run out of time for now. Since London is so close, it’s easy enough to tackle the rest either on day excursions, or all in one go. I’ll certainly be back for the rest.
Tell Me More About The Saffron Trail Across Essex
Greater Anglia has trains from Liverpool Street to Saffron Walden.
Accommodation is in short supply on this section of the trail so I stayed at the Red Cow in Chrishall, a short taxi ride from Henham. It also has excellent food.
Visit Essex has details of the various stages of the trail.
