Lynne Coates luxuriates in the secluded splendour of Finca La Donaira tucked away in the Andalusian mountains.
We park our car in the village of El Gastor and are met by Juan, in a Landcruiser, as a 4×4 is needed for the steep, winding tracks that lead to the discreet, Relais & Chateaux luxury hotel that is Finca La Donaira.
Greeted by Emma, the hotel host, who looks Spanish but retains her Glaswegian accent, we are shown to Sophia, our stunning garden suite. Each of the hotel’s nine bedrooms and suites is named after a member of the owner’s family and each has been individually designed and furnished.
Converted from a typical Andalusian farmhouse, the original features have been creatively integrated with contemporary styling by La Donaira’s architect, the rooms having a mix of antique and modern furniture and unique artworks. It’s not just the décor that makes the accommodation so special – windows frame the mountain views, bringing the beauty of the location into the rooms like a magnificent mural.
The estate extends to 1,700 acres, and is run as an eco-farm, eschewing toxic materials and anything that may harm the soil in any way. At Finca La Donaira, welfare of both animals and land is a priority. It is also an eco-retreat, offering activities such as yoga, meditation and mindfulness. Initially, the owner bought the land because of his love of horses, and, in particular, Portuguese Lusitanos, which are now bred on the estate. As well as horses, there are donkeys, cows, goats, sheep, chickens, dogs and cats, all of which play a part in this wonderful environment.
After settling into our luxurious suite, and enjoying a delicious lunch, it’s time to explore, and guests are invited to tour the estate and meet the animals. We are driven around by Adrian, who, we learn, is Polish but has lived in Columbia and, as with many of Finca La Donaira’s staff, is multi-skilled. We visit the donkeys for some ear rubbing therapy, (theirs not ours!) – a lovely experience. The goats are adorable, especially the babies, and the Pajuna cows, a rare Spanish breed, are magnificent.
The highlight for me is seeing the Lusitano mares running free in the fields with their foals. These white horses are eye-wateringly beautiful, and getting close enough to stroke them, is magical. Many guests come to Finca La Donaira specifically to ride the Lusitanos. With an active breeding programme, there are around 90 horses on the estate.
Among Adrian’s many skills is brewing Kombucha, a fermented, lightly effervescent, sweetened tea. He gives us a workshop in making it, creating different flavours, and he explains its health benefits. I find it very interesting but decide to stick to wine.
A balance of activities and relaxation are all part of Finca La Donaira’s ethos, and guests can be as active or sedentary as they wish. There are trails for mountain-biking, hiking and horse-riding, and there is rock-climbing for adventure seekers. When we visit in September it is still Spanish summer, so sunbeds by the palm-fringed, natural-spring, outdoor pool look very inviting.
There is also a spa, with a 21-metre indoor pool, floor to ceiling windows at either end giving the impression of an infinity pool, with panoramic mountain views. Secreted away in a corner of the gardens is a yurt where guests can enjoy a massage (aromatherapy, osteopathic, Thai or deep tissue) and a range of rejuvenating beauty treatments.
Evenings in Finca La Donaira are relaxed and informal, with candlelit tables, and ambient music drifting through the lounges. Guests politely acknowledge each other, some liking to chat while others prefer romantic dinners ‘a deux’. The large, open kitchen has an informal dining area, where you can watch the chefs at work, creating wonderfully innovative dishes, using the farm’s home-grown produce.
The food is exceptional, and the presentation simply art on a plate. All wines are organic, produced naturally with no added sulphites. David, the sommelier, explains the origins of each wine as they are paired with the dishes, some produced from Finca La Donaira’s own vineyards.
Sleep comes easily in our luxuriously comfortable bed, awakened only by the soft morning sun and the sound of birdsong. Breakfast, (served by Nikki, who hails from Worcester) of organic oats with cherry compote, yogurt, and a choice of cooked eggs, freshly made breads and homemade jams, is a perfect start to the day.
Adrian collects us for a visit to the winery, where I lend a hand to the volunteers who are pressing the grapes today. Finca La Donaira has many international volunteers, who come to experience life on the estate. The wines are produced in collaboration with winegrowers from different regions of Andalusia, under the label of Roca Viva Wines. Guests can book a tour and tasting.
Finca La Donaira’s gardens supply the kitchens and I am fascinated by the diversity of produce as GiGi, the head gardener, shows me around the medicinal herb garden, with 300 types of edible herbs and flowers, fruit and nut trees, and a multitude of vegetables – I learn a lot!
After our two days’ stay, it is time for Juan to return us to El Gastor, and reality.
Finca La Donaira, is an exceptional hotel whose discreet, understated luxury harmoniously synchronises with nature, delivering a heavenly escape from real life – don’t we all deserve a slice of that.
Images (C) Lynne Coates and Finca La Donaira
Tell me more about Finca La Donaira in Andalusia
Finca La Donaira, Camino de las minas, Montecorto, Malaga 29430
T: +34 680 654 454 E: reservations@ladonaira.com
Rates from € 970 per night (double occupancy) on a full board basis. Rates include accommodation, beverages and snacks, use of the outdoor pool, the Spa (indoor pool, sauna, and steam room), and access to the farm trails and the medicinal herb garden. Shuttles, treatments, riding lessons, hacks, and other experiences are available at an additional cost. Rates include all meals as well as all alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.
