Sarah Kingdom shares her memories and offers ten top tips for fabulous Fez.
Fresh off a flight, Fez was my first Moroccan city, and I fell instantly in love. Dating back to the 8th century, the maze-like high-walled Fez medina is the oldest, most complete medieval city in the Arab world, and it exudes the quiet self-confidence that comes from thousands of years of history. This is Morocco’s spiritual and cultural heart, an intoxicating blend of ancient traditions, stunning architecture and vibrant street life, and wandering the tangle of more than 9,500 narrow alleyways felt like I was stepping back in time.
Moroccan cuisine is a genuine melting pot, and Fez is without doubt, Morocco’s capital of food. The city’s cuisine is a melting pot of influences and cultures, who have all left their culinary mark. Berber dishes, based on semolina and fresh vegetables. The Arabs, Moors and Ottomans, who contributed spices like ginger and saffron, new ways of cooking meat, and recipes that included honey, almonds, and pistachios. Jews immigrating from Spain brought tagines, as well as sweet and salty pastries.
French settlers who introduced couscous, and the Turks and Algerians introduced grilled meats and skewers. The food markets groan under the weight of fresh local produce, the street food is excellent, and dining options are endless, from tea shops in the medina to elegant tables in the courtyards of ancient palaces.
“Balak! Balak! Balak!”, I turn and see a donkey and cart heading straight towards me. The Fez medina is not for the faint-hearted. Its over 9,500 labyrinthine, narrow alleyways team with hagglers, mule drivers and motorbikes, and rule number one is to get out of the way when you hear “balak”, which roughly translates as ‘beware’ or ‘move it’, usually because there’s a heavily laden handcart or mule bearing down on you.
I was on a food tour of the medina, munching my way through the delights of Moroccan food – definitely one of the best ways to experience the city.
A food tour of the Fez medina not only fills your tummy but also gives you an education into the history of the city. Foodies can sample everything from local breads, sheep and goat cheeses, dates, olives, harira soup made from chickpeas with fresh herbs and spices, and even some more adventurous dishes, like snail soup or boiled sheep’s head. Finish off with that most tempting of sweet treats, chebakia (deep-fried dough coated in sesame seeds) and wild honey washed down with some mint tea, the signature drink of Fez and the city’s favourite pastime.
Just a few steps from the medina, the rooftop restaurant of our hotel, the 14th-century Palais de Fes, looks over the square and up at the old town. Dinners here contained dishes that pay homage to Morocco’s culinary heritage, from fabulous lamb tagines to an incredible pigeon pastilla, a delicacy that dates back to the 15th century, made of filo pastry, stuffed with rich, tender pigeon meat, aromatic spices and lightly scrambled egg, finished with a sprinkling of icing sugar and cinnamon.
Fez is of course more than just its food. The media contain a jumble of souks, riads, artisan workshops, leather tanneries, mosques, and palaces that date back more than 1,000 years. As the oldest of Morocco’s four imperial capitals, it should come as no surprise that the dynamic medina of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and with all that history there’s a lot to see.
No map could possibly capture the warren of more than 9,500 labyrinthine, narrow alleyways and for me, the real joy of exploring the medina was discovering what was around the next corner or down the next street; an ancient mosque, a tiny bakery, a lively food market or an open square where I could sip mint tea while watching the world pass by.
There’s much to see and do with my ten top tips of fabulous Fez, so let’s dive in:
1. Lose Yourself in the Fes Medina
The souks of Fez are legendary, offering a dizzying array of goods from spices and textiles to ceramics and jewellery. Each souk specializes in different products, and the experience of navigating these narrow, bustling market streets is a feast for the senses. The vibrant colours, the tantalizing aromas, and the silver-tongued sweet-talking of the vendors create an unforgettable atmosphere.
Enter the medina via the Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud), one of the most famous landmarks in Fez. This stunning entrance to the medina is decorated with beautiful blue tiles on one side and green tiles on the other. It’s a popular spot for taking photos and a good reference point to keep in mind when navigating the medina.
2. Marvel at Bou Inania Madrasa
A visit to Bou Inania Madrasa is a must for anyone interested in Islamic architecture. Founded in the 14th century, this religious school is a masterpiece of intricate design, featuring a stunning marble courtyard, exquisite wood carvings, and detailed mosaic tilework. The adjoining mosque with its green-tiled minaret adds to the splendour. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome to explore the madrasa, which is open from 9 AM to 5 PM, except during prayer times. To avoid the crowds, visit early in the morning when it first opens.
3. Visit the Kairaouine Mosque
The Kairaouine Mosque is a cornerstone of Fez’s religious and educational heritage. Founded in 859 AD, this is the world’s oldest continuously operating university. While non-Muslims cannot enter, you can catch still glimpses of its stunning architecture through the gates. The mosque features a beautiful marble courtyard, intricate fountains, and striking arches. The minaret, visible from afar, is an iconic part of the Fez skyline.
4. Experience the Tanneries
Fez’s tanneries are world-renowned and offer a unique glimpse into the ancient craft of leather-making. The Chouara Tannery, the largest and oldest, is particularly impressive with its rows of earthen pits filled with various coloured dyes. The smell is pungent’ and can be overpowering, so bring some mint leaves to mask the odour. Nearby rooftop terraces provide excellent vantage points for viewing and photographing the tanneries without getting too close.
5. Explore Al Attarine Madrasa
Another architectural gem, the Al Attarine Madrasa, is known for its intricate design and historical significance. The courtyard is adorned with geometric patterned tiles, and the carved wooden doors are a testament to Moroccan craftsmanship. It’s located close to the Kairaouine Mosque and Chouara Tannery, so visit the madrassa while you are in the neighbourhood.
6. Admire the Royal Palace
Although you can’t go inside the Royal Palace (Dar Al-Makhzen), the view from outside is still worth a look. The palace features impressive blue mosaic tile walls and grand bronze doors, and adjacent to the palace are lovely gardens and the grand mosque Fes el-Jdid, which boasts a beautifully embellished minaret.
7. Relax in Jnan Sbil Gardens
Amidst the hustle and bustle of the medina, Jnan Sbil Gardens are a breath of fresh air and a tranquil escape after the intensity of Fez’s medina. The gardens date back to the 18th century, are beautifully set out with over 3,000 species of plant, serene water fountains, and beautifully manicured walkways lined with palm trees. This is a perfect spot to relax or take a leisurely stroll. The gardens are best at dusk, when the locals visit to cool off around the grand central fountains, promenade along the paths, and visit the peacocks and doves in the bird coops.
8. Buy a Moroccan Carpet
Fez is famous for its beautiful, handcrafted rugs and carpets and the carpet of my dreams was just a haggle away. Carpet shops are scattered throughout the medina, with a wide variety of designs, sizes and prices – thick black, brown and white Berber carpets, made using only the softest and silkiest of wool, sheared from the sheep’s heads, and with every knot, stitch and tassel telling the story of the village where it was made, lightweight kelims, from the low and middle Atlas, with intricate designs, flat, hand woven and easy to roll up for transport. When purchasing a carpet, it’s a good idea to get recommendations for reputable sellers and be prepared to bargain for the best price.
9. Enjoy the View from Borj Nord
For a stunning sweeping panoramic view of Fez, head to Borj Nord, an old fortress located on a hill overlooking the city. Built by Sultan Ahmed Al Mansour in 1582, and modelled on Italian forts, the view is especially breath-taking at sunset, when the medina and surrounding landscape are bathed in a warm glow.
10. Watch the Sunset from a Rooftop
Fez’s flat rooftops provide excellent vantage points for panoramic views of the city, especially at sunset. Rooftop cafes and bars, such as the popular Cafe Clock, offer a relaxing spot to enjoy the view while sipping on mint tea or enjoying a meal. As the sun sets, the call to prayer will start, echoing through the city. The way the colours of the sky change and bathe the city in a golden glow is sunset perfection at its finest.
Fez captivates and enchants, with its rich history, vibrant culture, and stunning architecture. From exploring the labyrinthine medina to relaxing in tranquil gardens, every corner of Fez offers something unique and unforgettable. Pack your bags, bring a sense of adventure, and get ready to discover ten top tips for fabulous Fez.
Tell me more about these ten top tips for fabulous Fez
For more details on these ten top tips for fabulous Fez, please go to Visit Morocco the official National Tourist Office.
Recommended Stay
Palais de Fes Dar Tazi, three rambling, interlinked palaces, parts of which date from the 14th century, that have been amalgamated into one glorious building, that looks out over the square and up at the old town. Sumptuous suites, incredible food, wonderful luminous, handmade emerald green tile clad the external walls, masterful woodwork, plush velvet sofas. With five suites and a riad, prices start from $255/GBP£200.
Palais de Fes Dar Tazi, 15 Makhfia R’cif, near Cinema Amal, Fez Medina, Morocco.
T: +212 5 35 76 15 90 +212 6 61 08 36 65 E: reservations@palais-de-fes.com
Planning your Travels
Planning a trip to Fez is made easy with Alex Wix, founder of bespoke travel company Wix Squared. Alex has been based in Morocco for years, which has given her that extra insider knowledge and expertise, making her the perfect person to plan the ultimate Fez itinerary. https://wixsquared.com/
