Andy Mossack luxuriates in the exquisite embrace of the Villa Principe Leopoldo. A masterpiece of understated luxury in Lugano.
Scented lemon trees, birdsong and a right royal view are merely the support cast of a production that just about ticks every box in a luxury hotel stay. The villa and grounds, once the summer residence of Prince Friedrich Leopold of Prussia, is of course a magnificent theatre to begin with, but without the right actors, staging and script you won’t have a smash hit on your hands.
General manager of over ten years Barbara Gibellini, has created her own parallel universe up here on Collina d’Oro (Golden Hill), a place of wonderment where attention to detail and hospitality are genuinely second to none. Up here, it’s not only the air that’s rarefied, the neighbourhood positively oozes class and sophistication, trying its hardest to outdo the glorious vista of lovely Lake Lugano spread out far below. It fails spectacularly of course, but maybe comes a close second. It may have once been a royal family home but now it’s a home from home where you are treated like a true family member and rest assured matriarch Barbara will be ensuring that happens.
Villa Principe Leopoldo is discreetly set back off the road sitting within lush gardens manicured to within an inch of their life. A carriage drive leads into a grand reception area, a tantalising glimpse of the spectacular lake terrace beyond, coyly visible through French windows.It’s an unquestionably impressive entrance, leaving you in no doubt as to what lies in store.
My Panorama Lake View suite is one of thirty-seven guestrooms set over two floors. Bedecked in chic blue and grey tones, a glorious king bed with satiny sheets dominates the bedspace leading to a spacious sitting area with a writing desk and settee. Sliding patio doors open out to a private terrace with just a magical view of Lake Lugano and the bay for company. Back inside, the bathroom is a study in marble with Aqua di Palma toiletries and a walk-in rainforest shower.
The lower grounds are magnificent, festooned with multi-coloured hydrangeas and scented lemon trees. Amongst all this flora and fauna, two outdoor pools lay gurgling away awaiting customers. And, off to one side, a fitness and full-service spa and wellness centre awaits, with therapists to rebalance, revitalise and relax your wellbeing with a whole host of treatments from Jurvedha to reshaping.
Within walking distance up a short flight of steps is the bar. Ready and waiting to deliver refreshments around the pool by day and, as evening approaches, cocktails and pre-dinner drinks on the main terrace. Perhaps a scene straight out of central casting for a Ferrer Roche commercial? Not too far from the truth though with global clothing brand GUESS partnering with Villa Principe Leopoldo on numerous projects.
It’s a seamless well-oiled team production. And speaking of dinner, the Restaurante Principe Leopoldo with its 16 Gault & Millau points is like a fabulous encore after the final act. Staged within a floor to ceiling glass conservatory in the garden I’m all set for the legendary eight-course ‘surprise’ tasting menu courtesy of much lauded Executive Chef Cristian Moreschi a gentleman whose book of Ticino-inspired culinary spells contains enough magic weaving to seduce even the most particular of palates.
It begins with a real surprise, golden olive oil! A first for me. Exclusively supplied for Villa Principe Leopoldo by a private vineyard in Tuscany. Tiny olives providing golden oil literally bursting with flavour. And paired with freshly baked crusty bread the marriage is made in heaven.
What a culinary journey of discovery this is. A lobster salad with mango, lime and ginger sets the bar high, it raises higher as I devour crispy breaded raw tuna in a spicy broth. A pause now, long enough for me to survey my fellow diners. Lashings of Lugano glamour everywhere, and taking up almost a third of the room, a glitzy corporate bash full of fashionistas and well-heeled suits. Clearly some to be seen, and others to be seen with. I spot Barabara working the room, schmoozing diners whilst keeping an eye on service.
My musings are interrupted as my third course materialises: a strawberry ball filled with goose liver parfait topped with rhubarb and accompanied by a narrow balsamic stream snaking around the plate. Then, an absolute belter drawn from Moreschi’s Italian roots – three large cappellacci pasta cups stuffed with potato and leek and doused in morels and a Ticino blue cheese foam.
Two main courses are up now. A succulently soft halibut fillet resting on a bed of asparagus and morels, quickly followed by a perfectly pink soldier of breaded veal fillet surrounded by a moat of beefy jus.
I’ve reached the grand finale now as an elderflower and champagne semi-freddo parfait topped by a crisp pineapple ring is triumphantly delivered, together with a Tuscan dessert wine my waiter whispers is “the best in the world.” What a finish. An epic experience that leaves me so full I can just about stagger back to my room.
Despite last night’s epic meal, I’m awake the next morning eager to try out the breakfast terrace. It is a serene spot above the pool where the garden’s blooms are on full display. An impressive buffet awaits me with fresh local produce and pastries, and hot food is cooked to order if required. I ask for an omelette with everything in it and ten minutes later it’s personally delivered by the breakfast restaurant manager who tells me ‘I made it myself using my family recipe’. Another first. Incredibly impressive and a clear message that guest service at Villa Principe Leopoldo is something very special.
The final curtain on a faultless production. Villa Principe Leopoldo take a bow to a standing ovation.
As I await my shuttle to take me to Lugano station for my train back to Zurich, (The hotel runs a free shuttle service down to Lugano and to and from the station) I reckon Prince Leopold would be so pleased his majestic stately home is in such good hands. The royal standard lives on.
Tell me more about the Villa Principe Leopoldo in Lugano
Villa Principe Leopoldo, Via Montalbano, 5 CH, 6900 Lugano Switzerland
T: +41 91 985 88 55 E: info@leopoldohotel.com
Suites from CHF 810 (around £712 includes up to 3 guests). Book direct to get the best prices and exclusive discount offers.
8 Course tasting menu is CHF180 (around £158) per person. Additional wine pairings are available.
The hotel operates a frequent free shuttle to and from Lugano city centre and the train station.
