Andy Mossack reviews Riviera London, the latest addition to the Zandi brothers’ growing restaurant portfolio.
Ever since they launched Latin American inspired Zuaya in 2018, the Zandi brothers, Arian and Alberto, have certainly got tongues wagging on the London restaurant scene. Six years on and their fledgling Emerald Hospitality Group has grown to four restaurants with Como Garden in 2020, Mayfair’s El Norte in 2021, and now Riviera London in swanky St. James’s Street also in Mayfair.
Dubbing itself as a ‘taste of the Côte d’Azur’ leaves you in doubt as to what the fancy fare is here, as it very much does what it says on the tin. Everything about the décor focuses your mind and stomach on the French riviera, the golden hues of the lampshades and entrance ceiling art to the sandy tones of the cavernous main restaurant walls. The giant windows overlooking St James’s might also offer an occasional glorious sunset if the London weather allows.
Not quite the French riviera, but you get my drift. Even in the basement where the bathrooms reside, the riviera theme continues with each azure stall containing a unique mural depicting a different location in the south of France.
To my mind, this might be the latest venture, but it’s the best of the four. It’s a place that has options. There’s a flamboyant cocktail lounge Amelia down at street level that promises live entertainment, an escalator or lift to take you to the main restaurant on the next floor, and a vast outdoor terrace planned to open in the summer, one floor up from there.
The Zandi brothers have always employed hostesses in their restaurants, but Riviera London goes one better. I was not only met at the entrance by the hostess who ushered me into the lift, but, once the doors opened, another member of staff met me to take me tableside.
The main restaurant is a very impressive space, in a crescent shape with an open kitchen at one end where you can watch the magic happen. The theme here is mainly sharing plates with food inspired by St Tropez, Cannes, Nice and Antibes, and our starters were certainly magical. A very generous bowl of Salad Niçoise (£15) appeared with de rigueur eggs, green beans, fresh tuna, tomato, potato, olives, and lettuce. Right on point. The very taste of Nice.
Two more starters followed, a delightful lobster brioche (£18) full of flavour and ever so lightly toasted, and a quite magnificent truffle and goat’s cheese-stuffed courgette flower in tempura (£15). Something of a Riviera London staple this, lightly battered and the filling of warm goat’s cheese oozed out once punctured. It reminded me of a miniature stick of candy floss but far more serene.
Les Viandes were up next, triumphantly delivered to the table like offerings to the gods. Four perfectly cooked lamb chops cut directly from a crown rack, adorned with a sauce of tangy puy lentils (£39.50). My beef fillet (£49.50) was ready sliced, perhaps a French version of an Italian tagliata, and bathed in a luxurious pepper sauce. Both dishes tender and buttery, the portions very generous indeed. Another Riviera London staple, a bowl of sauteed crunchy French beans cooked with a chilli and onion confit (£9) came as a worthy side, as did the creamed potatoes (£9), looking very regal in a glamorous copper pan.
By now, Riviera London had filled up very nicely for a Tuesday evening, the elevator doors working hard ferrying more patrons to be escorted to tables around the crescent.
Another sharing dish for dessert. A suitably creamy Crème Brûlée (£9) adorned by a sprig of lavender and a couple of butter biscuits. Not strictly mediterranean perhaps as its provenance is still unproven, but who can resist it anyway.
Riviera London does the Côte d’Azur proud, not only is the food delicious, plentiful, and good value for such a high-end address, but the south of France ambience is spot on. I’m excited to see how the outside terrace will turn out, as it is promised to be a chill space, covered and heated when necessary, amid laid back sofas aplenty.
In the meantime, enjoy a true taste of the south of France on one of London’s most prestigious streets.
Food images (C) Andy Mossack
Tell me more about Riviera London in Mayfair
Riviera London, 23 St James Sreet, London SW1A 1HA
T: 020 8050 6932 E: reservations@riviera-london.co.uk
12.30 pm to 1.30 am every day except Sunday 12 pm to 11.30 pm
