Sumptuous Shiro Sushi, London

Andy Mossack samples a taste of the East at Shiro Sushi in London’s Broadgate Circle.

I have to admit, the biggest challenge of the evening for me was finding Shiro Sushi in the new concrete maze that is Broadgate Circle off Liverpool Street. However, my perseverance was rewarded as I finally found it, discreetly tucked away on Broadgate’s upper level, aloof from the rabble of other restaurants jostling for business below.

Rather apt as it turned out, as this really was upper-level Japanese fare.

Shiro Sushi is the new sister to the Tokyo original and part of David Yeo’s rapidly expanding Aqua Restaurant Group’s London portfolio which includes Aqua and Hutong at the Shard, Aqua Nuevo and Aqua Kyoto.

Central to Shiro’ Sushi’s food offering is sushi and the famed Japanese robata grill, perhaps the forerunner to the Josper, or is it the other way around? Either way, the food here is exceptional. Beautifully cooked and plated, with service to match.

Shiro translates as white, and the interior perfectly reflects that moniker with chic clean lines across two levels with contemporary glass-topped raffia-type tables. A generous sushi countertop dominates a narrow interior in front of an open-style kitchen. It was a Saturday evening, so not the City-type crowd I was expecting, but plenty of stylish trendy types in for a quick ramen or perhaps a signature crystal sushi or three.

First glance at the menus and there are intriguing Japanese-inspired cocktails. I pick a plum and ginger margarita (£14) made with Topatio Blanco tequila, plum sake, yuzu, chilli and ginger. Totally delicious.

A selection of starters kicked us off, beginning with a first for me – avocado tempura (£8). An absolute belter of a dish. Lightly battered quarters of avocado clustered together in a pile of avo heaven with green chilli yuzu kosho mayo and oo nori salt. I’m not ashamed to say I pray at the altar of the avocado in all its forms and this particular one will live long in my memory of great avo eats.

Edamame of course (£5.5) some perfectly formed fried pumpkin gyoza (£10) and a refreshing vine tomato salad (£10) which sat beautifully in the centre of the plate surrounded by a dressing of soy. Dashi and ginger.

So far so delicious then.

Next up came a chef’s special sushi platter. A pair each of the famed crystal sushi – this one fatty salmon with mint and sake jelly – spicy tuna with avocado cucumber and chilli mayo, and a saba with mackerel. 8 pieces (£24)

The mains were next and once again a bevvy of flavours that were melt in the mouth. Fried cauliflower amply dressed with Shiro’s house-made shitake XO sauce (£13.5) and a pork belly cha Shu ramen (£23) slow-cooked pork in a ramen 48-hour cooked broth, with noodles, egg and burnt garlic. Honestly? Another bowl of heaven.

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, we were almost forcibly tempted into two desserts. Another divine tempura – this time hot fresh mango (£10) and a black sesame fondant with vanilla ice cream ((£10) that was to all intents and purposes a gorgeous melted dark chocolate as far as I was concerned.

My Shiro Sushi dining experience was an outstanding example of high-quality Japanese food delivered fit enough for an emperor’s royal banquet. A truly sumptuous encounter, and one, particularly because of the inspired avocado and mango tempuras, will have me going back there frequently for more of the same.

Well worth the effort of finding it I can tell you.