Considering it was a Thursday night, spare tables at Roux at The Landau, the signature restaurant at The Langham Hotel in Portland Place were few and far between. Perhaps it was a busy night at the BBC studios just opposite, or perhaps the draw of the 5 course tasting menu for £65 was too irresistible.
My guess, was the re-emergence of The Langham Hotel to the top tier of London’s luxury hotels was the culprit; that and the reuniting of the Roux father and son dynasty of course.
The Langham Hotel lost its way under Hilton management, but the investment and attention to detail of new Hong Kong based owners has transformed this legendary property. And The Landau, where Oscar Wilde and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle were regulars amongst other luminaries, has once again found itself thanks to the cuisine artistry of the Roux’s ably assisted by Chef de Cuisine Chris King.
The Landau is a cavernous but elegant space, its high ceiling and gilded wood oval walls adding a sense of style and sophistication in keeping with The Langham’s rich history.
I opted for the 5 course tasting menu with wine pairing at £115 with Frederick the French sommelier taking me on a journey around the vineyards of Europe with each course. His obvious passion for the fruit of the vine was in full vent as my beautiful cauliflower soup was delivered, despite eschewing French for a crisp Italian white, promising me it would “balance beautifully with the fragrance of the cauliflower.” Which it did. Perfectly.
The trouble with reviewing tasting menus is they change rapidly, so rather than describe a dish you won’t be getting, let me instead report, said tasting menu was a triumph. Service was attentive, perhaps even entertaining at times and although given the surroundings, it could have veered into stuffy or pretentious, the team skilfully avoided falling into that trap.
You could argue the portions were a touch on the light side, yet by the end of the meal I was satisfyingly full.
Roux at The Landau will not disappoint and is in my opinion a very affordable slice of fine dining within a memorable venue.
5 Course tasting menu £65 with wine pairing £115.
