Rupert Parker eats at Masalchi by Atul Kochhar, this new Indian Restaurant, next to Wembley Stadium
It must be at least ten years since I went to Wembley and the transformation is extraordinary. Gone are the vast wastes of parking space surrounding the stadium and instead a brand-new neighbourhood has emerged. Think Westfield or Canary Wharf and you get the idea of the architecture and it’s crammed with familiar stores and a variety of restaurants.
Masalchi by Atul Kochhar is right beside the steps leading to the famous stadium, perfectly placed for a quick curry before the match or concert. Occupying the ground floor of a tall residential block, its glass frontage means it’s bright and airy inside. Tables are well-spaced, there’s a bar in the middle and the open kitchen sits at the rear.
Masalchi by Atul Kochhar is the brainchild of Chef Atul Kochhar, who’s long been a feature of quality eating in London, winning Michelin Stars for his fine dining take on Indian cuisine. Here the emphasis is on unpretentious street food, discovered by Kochhar during his travels in the subcontinent, and it’s served all day.
We’re shown to a table in the middle of the restaurant and order cocktails. I go for a Pineapple and Chilli Margarita while my partner orders a non-alcoholic Pineapple and Chilli Margarita. They arrive swiftly and we get an explanation of the menu. Half Plates are for sharing, basically Indian snacks, and then you choose from sections labelled Grills, Handi, Masala, Kalia, Vegetables & Sides. Biryani and Bread & Rice. And of course, there is a selection of desserts.
We start with a couple of Punjabi Samosas, served with a drizzle of tamarind with spicy green chutney. They’re pleasantly crispy just out of the deep fryer and deliver the requisite kick. Ambasari Jhinga is a trio of lightly battered prawns with ajwain, lemon and chilli, also crispy and piping hot. I try Jhal Muri, a kind of Indian rice crispies with mustard oil and chilli, exactly the snack you’d eat on the streets of Calcutta.
Now the portions have been just right for two, but the Hotel Buhari Chicken 65 is the size of a generous main course. It’s very good, with a slight crunch, but this time the meat is tossed with curry leaves and chilli. Impossible to resist, we polish it all off before the main courses arrive.
There’s a nicely tangy Machhi Masala, fish in South Indian spiced sauce with tamarind and coconut with lots of curry leaves. Lahori Chaapein are grilled lamb chops inspired by the street markets of Lahore, served with green chutney and a small salad. They’re slightly pink on the inside but achingly tender.
We’ve skipped the vegetable sides to investigate Tandoori Hara Gobhi, grilled broccoli with lime and kasundi mustard. It’s a good idea but I find it slightly soggy after the crunch of the other dishes although the spicing is good. A side of steamed rice and a glass of Hungarian Sauvignon Blanc and a Mango Lassi make ideal accompaniments before we share a dessert of chocolate mousse, topped with berries and a flower.
On a Friday night, not a match day, the place is buzzing with a mainly Asian crowd, including couples and large families. The legacy of Kochhar’s fine dining background is that every plate is immaculately presented on designer crockery. There’s no hint of grease or oiliness in the dishes, just the delicate spices shining through. Service is immaculate, with plenty of waiting staff, so if you’re in a pre-match hurry for curry you should have no problem. Definitely recommended.
Tell Me More About Masalchi By Atul Kochhar
Prices are reasonable for the location with starters £4.95-£7, mains £11-£14 and desserts £4.50-£5.25.
Masalchi by Atul Kochhar 2 Wembley Park Boulevard, Wembley HA9 0HP
T: 01494 728 126 (10:30 am – 6:30 pm)
T: 020 8634 8181 (Out of office hours)
E:reservations@masalchi.co.uk
