Rupert Parker Doesn’t Miss The Meat At Mallow Restaurant in Canary Wharf
I recently visited Mildreds in Dalston, serving 100% plant-based dishes, and enjoyed it so much that I started hankering for more. So, when I discovered that the same team have another couple of restaurants under the Mallow brand, I had to visit. They started in Borough Market but I’m off to their second branch in Canary Wharf. They promise “elevated” rather than fine dining but that sounds good enough for me.
It’s only a short walk from Canary Wharf station and inside the decor is bright, stylish, and even chic. A forest of different shaped lampshades populate the ceiling with bright fairy lights strung across the glass windows. Even on a Monday night, it’s buzzing, even loud as people are obviously enjoying themselves. The restaurant spreads across two floors and there are outside tables if you’re hardy enough to brave the English winter.
The menu is divided into small, medium or big plates and Grace from Toronto, our knowledgeable waitress, guides us through the choices. She recommends three to four small plates, followed by a couple of mediums and we follow her advice. The cosmopolitan dishes hail from all over the world, a list of greatest veggie hits. Only one item is listed under big – mallow truffle chick+n burger which we decide will probably be too much.
I go for a glass of Pinot Noir but my partner raves about the mixed juices. She tries them all: carrot, apple and ginger, then the pineapple, apple, ginger and turmeric and finally beetroot, carrot, apple and lime. A plate of Focaccia with onion butter is a good way to fend off our hunger pangs, but soon the small plates arrive. What’s immediately apparent is that presentation is key here, vegan pictures on a plate to dream of.
First up are pan fried dumplings with crispy green chilli oil and black vinegar, a dish we fondly remember from Mildreds and very good too. A celeriac potato galette comes as a tower of layered root veg, served with a mole coloradito and parsnip crisps. It works well. with the spicy sauce adding that extra kick.
Even prettier is sweet potato pepper mojo with smoky salsa macha and candied quinoa. This is a colourful dish, reds and yellows topped with crispy quinoa, a dip inviting our focaccia to dig into. The big surprise is black sesame shiitake toast, a lump of darkness, served on charcoal brioche. The mushrooms are suitably earthy, brought to life by the cranberry sweet & sour dressing. It’s a definite hit.
So to the medium plates. Ohn no khao swe is noodles in caramelised onion coconut cream with shan tofu, sweet potato, leek and holy basil. For us who like spice, we find it slightly bland, but we pair it with garlic winter greens and suddenly all is well.
Pakora masala brings back happy memories of south Indian breakfasts. The spicy fritters are served in a tomato sambar with thin slices of okra and parsnip fritters. It’s a large enough plate, really a dish on its own and none the worse for that.
Finally we’ve eaten enough not to need any more, but we do manage to share one dessert. It’s a ras malai crème brûlée, obviously completely vegan, with saffron infused cream, poached apricots, pistachio and rose petals. A wonder to behold and they’ve even managed to get the transparent layer of burnt sugar on the top.
Mallow really does up the game for plant-based food, not only taking you on an international journey of world veggies, but also imaginatively arranging them on the plate. Rather than trying to emulate meat dishes, they’ve sourced their flavour ideas from other cultures and managed to create a triumph of vegan cuisine. Oh and don’t forget those wonderful juices.
Tell Me More About Mallow Restaurant in Canary Wharf
Mallow Restaurant 12 Park Drive, Wood Wharf, London, E14 9ZW
T: 0208 0508 704
Small plates from £7, medium plates from £17, desserts from £9.50.
On New Year’s Eve, they’re offering a special 6 course nikkei vistosa menu, a journey of flavours through the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine, for £62 pp.
