Michael Cranmer visits Kronplatz and Samples South Tirol Hospitality On A Pudding Shaped Mountain.
Kronplatz, in the South Tyrol, is part of Dolomiti Superski, the ‘World’s biggest ski area.’ Little known by Brits, it deserves consideration from those seeking beautiful surroundings, slopes to suit all ages and levels, modern gondola and chair lifts, Italian hospitality, and plenty to do for non-skiers. The Kronplatz tops out at 2,275 metres and sits in the Pustertal Valley in the South Tyrol, an autonomous province in northern Italy. It is within the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage area.
Curvy Cruising
The mountain, with its distinctly feminine curvaceous outline, bears more resemblance to the east coast resorts of the USA than the surrounding jagged peaks of the Dolomites, hence its nickname ‘Pannetone.’ If this was the Lake District we would call it the ‘Plum Pudding.’ 31 lifts radiate from its base up to a single summit point, not a drag lift in sight: then there’s a choice of 49 pistes of all levels. From the top the views of the surrounding mountaintops are breathtaking, but it’s quite exposed.
However, shelter is on hand with the tree line beckoning. Of the 121 kilometres of pistes, cruisy blues predominate, with some long thigh-burning reds, and, of course, obligatory blacks, ‘Herrnegg’ and ‘Sylvester’ challenging enough with 1,200 metre descents. It’s on these slopes that the Italian world cup team train. If you prefer gentler runs there’s a fistful of lovely blues on the west shoulder. You can’t get lost; all lifts lead back to the top.
Round the Ronda
If you want to clock up the Ks on your smart watch there’s a Skibus every twenty minutes between Kronplatz and Alta Badia which is directly connected to the Sella Ronda ski circuit – the famous route which follows four Dolomite passes around the Sella massif. Average time for a decent skier is five to six hours, not allowing for an Italian lunch!
Worth a Photograph
There are good mountain restaurants on the Plum Pudding, sorry, Pannetone, the top one, literally at 2,275 metres, is housed in the old lift station cheek-by-jowl with the Lumen Museum of Photography. The chef Norbert Niederkofler, is man with a mission: his philosophy? – ‘Cook the Mountains, combining traditions, modernity, territory and seasonality to promote the economic and social development of the planet, beginning with food.’ Mmm. He did do a jolly nice spaghetti with sardines, roasted buckwheat and cabbage powder. They have the most brilliant method of hanging ski helmets while you eat.
Usually, you must plonk it on a window ledge or pile it with others on a bench. Not so here. A simple hook under each chair does the job. Why hasn’t anyone thought of that before! My tip: if the weather is clear, have a late lunch the better to enjoy the spectacular sunsets from the restaurant terrace. Wrap up, though. It gets parky up there. The photography museum is housed in the same building and is chock-full of, well, photography. Probably best visited in the summer, I found it strangely sterile.
Not far away is a remarkable building; designed by renowned architect Zaha Hadid. The Michael Messner Mountain Museum (M’nM’nM’nM?) does what it says. Packed with the history in words, photographs and exhibits, of traditional mountaineering, all housed within a Thunderbirds-like shell, The reflections of the mountains on the outside gigantic windows are inspiring. You wait for one museum and two come along at once.
Chimes at Midday
Atop the Pannetone the geography of the area becomes clear. The mountain forms the natural border between the Val Pusteria and the Val Badia-Gadertal, the main ridge of the Alps. An unnatural landmark (apart from a massive ugly telecoms tower) caps the summit; conceived by local Erich Kastlunger to mark the millennium, the 18 ton ‘Concordia 2000’ bell with its message of –‘Donet deus populis pacem’ – (‘God gives peace to the people’) breaks the peace at midday.
Tell Me More About Skiing at Kronplatz
For more information about the resort please visit the Kronplatz website
The Kronplatz Falkensteiner Hotel is a five-star hotel nestling at the foot of the mountain from which it takes its name
Ski passes
6-day ski pass for Kronplatz £278 (includes online discount)
Day passes £58 (€70)
LUMEN. Museum of Mountain Photography
