Isabel Conway reviews Kilkea Castle, one of Ireland’s most historic and oldest inhabited castle hotels.
If walls could talk Ireland’s castles would recall brave battles, daring sieges and many a cunning exploit. They were built, not as the royal palaces usually found elsewhere or for ostentatious show, but as practical strategic defences against invasion. Kilkea Castle is, one of Ireland’s oldest inhabited castles today, a medieval jewel transformed into a luxury hotel, less than one hour from Dublin.
With a colourful history stretching back to 1180, Kilkea Castle near the village of Castledermot Co Kildare might have been plucked from the images of childhood storybook tales. Surrounded by verdant forest, the vast stone fortified wall of turreted battlements and a round tower have been restored to their former glory thanks to a €30 million renovation that took years to complete.
The 186-acre estate also features a challenging 18-hole championship golf course, a wellness centre, a traditional Irish pub and fine dining.
Negotiating a maze of country roads blanketed by overgrown hedgerows I return to the Ireland of my childhood, meeting only motorised farm machinery, guided by Google maps in place of dodgy crossroads signage to our destination. Kilkea Castle looms up without warning behind oak and birch trees, its stone walls etched against a cloudless cobalt blue sky on a glorious afternoon.
An important landmark of Irish history, the castle was built in 1180 by Hugh de Lacy, the Earl of Ulster and the Chief Governor of Ireland, for Walter de Riddlesford, a Norman knight, who arrived during the Anglo-Norman invasion of 1169 on land owned by Richard de Clare who was one of the leading figures in the Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland.
The mighty fortification withstood frequent attacks, turmoil, and looting through the centuries was the location of the first ever Irish parliament.
Entering through a heavy oak door into the entrance hall and reception area visitors return to the distant past taken up the shadowing winding staircase, stones polished by centuries of use to our accommodation in the former carriage building off the main castle.
The castle’s owner Boston based property developer Jay Cashman, for whom the restoration of rundown Kilkea was a long labour of love, told how all he had to do was breathe life back into it. “The bones were here, it just needed some work. We all love a castle, we just don’t want one that’s draughty”, he said.
The result is a combination of medieval and modern chic, from the elegant 1180 dining room hung with royal blue panelled tapestries, arched doorways, gilded mirrors and elegant chandeliers to the atmospheric Keep cella-r like bar. The ever-friendly bar service spills out on sunny days onto a terrace where knights in suits of armour stand guard from the shadows. Beyond a magnificent 150-year-old Wisteria clings to garden walls. Another favourite chill out space is the sumptuous drawing room where religiously the fire is lit every morning, including summer.
VIP guests are accommodated in the Round Tower suite which commands 360 degree views of the estate and is the last word in luxury. My superior room is a stylish restful space in hues of blueish grey with a pop of bright colour here and there. The castle’s interior is accentuated by leaded windows that manage to allow buckets of light to beam through. A well- appointed bathroom has Elemis toiletries and there’s a Nespresso coffee machine and tasting boxes of Lily O’Brien chocolates. The hotel boasts 11 rooms in the castle itself, 24 guest rooms and suites in the renovated Carriage House and 33 three-bedroom self- catering lodges at the golf course.
Guests often wonder whether the castle harbours a ghost and legends abound, including the one about 16th ‘Wizard Earl of Kildare’ Gerald FitzGerald. A half- brother of legendary ‘Silken Thomas Fitzgerald who was executed for leading an Irish rebellion. Gerald reputedly practised the dark arts inside a hidden chamber deep in the castle, instigating magical incantations, including shape shifting spells, according to stories.
Those of a nervous disposition will be glad to know that not even a creaking floorboard nor a sudden draught from a window could be detected during my stay in the lap of luxury at Kilkea Castle resort.
Mine was a one night stay so after traipsing around the golf course, watching my son swing the clubs, we padded over to the spa to try the large soothing hydro pool and ice-cold bucket showers. In addition to golf and wellness, archery and falconry are offered and also tubing in the river. A stroll deeper in the grounds brings us to tombs of long deceased family members. The castle pets graveyard is among the ivy clad ruins we explore while working up a good appetite for dinner.
We dine in the elegant gastronomic restaurant 1180, rather than the popular bistro located at the golf club.
The best of local Irish farm to table produce features with a sophisticated take on Irish favourites like roast filet of beef. The three course menu with starters and then a choice of fish and meat, plus vegetarian options is a big success. My turbot with celeriac and watercress, topped with roasted fumet, is light and delicious, whilst the men’s locally sourced Co Kildare beef is pronounced superbly flavoursome.
We round dinner off with a fantastic rhubarb cheesecake from the tempting deserts menu, mango, passion fruit and Coconut Sorbet and chocolate mousse. Cooked to order breakfast next morning is served in the 1180 dining room and has a Downton Abbey feel to polished silver place settings, starched white tablecloths not forgetting impeccable service.
It was a fairly busy weekend but Kilkea does not feel crowded and as a past guest observed maybe people just disappear into another world, like the old ‘wizard’ himself.
Newbridge Silverware.
At the centre of Ireland’s Ancient East, Co Kildare, easily accessed from Dublin airport and ferry ports, is steeped in history, renowned for thoroughbred horse breeding and racing with beautiful countryside and greenways to walk and cycle. Well worth a visit, Newbridge Silverware is home to the Museum of Style Icons. Original garments and musical artefacts from Royalty, music and screen legends are on show.
The beloved Irish company has been making cutlery at its factory since 1934 and tours show off cuts being repurposed for sustainable and highly fashionable jewellery. A new attraction is Kildare Virtual Reality Experience at the Kildare Heritage Centre where visitors are transported back through the mists of time to pre-Christian days
Tell me more about Kilkea Castle Estate and Golf Club in County Kildare
Kilkea Castle, Kilkea Demesne, Castledermot, Co. Kildare R14 XE97
T: +353 59 9145600 E: info@kilkeacastle.ie
Rates at Kilkea Castle Estate and Golf Club from €170 for double occupancy of a classic carriage room with breakfast. A Linger for Longer offer is worth checking out with substantial discounts for the second night.
For County Kildare highlights please visit the official tourist board Into Kildare
