Kanpai Classic London, the hugely successful Taiwanese based restaurant group, has opened its first western restaurant in London’s Soho.
I knew we were in for a rather alternative evening when Soji Hiraide, the owner of Taiwan’s most famous Wagyu restaurant chain, was introduced to the press armed with hammers. Not common or garden hammers mind, ceremonial ones. I was reliably informed they were the key instruments for some good old fashioned barrel smashing.
What a way to kick off the grand opening of your new restaurant. Smashing the lid off a full barrel of aged sake and distributing lashings of it to the the assembled throng. It certainly got everyone’s attention that’s for sure.
And it seems Hiraide has managed to do just that in building his chain of Yakiniku style restaurants (which is a Japanese term for ‘bite sized grilled meat’) into a veritable empire across Taiwan and China. Inspired by Korean table barbecues, Hiraide’s Kanpai Classic chain takes Yakiniku dining to a whole new level by focussing solely on high end Wagyu beef. So much so that his Shanghai restaurant became the first in the world to win a Michelin star for Yakiniku.
Fast forward to London’s Soho and here we were at the grand opening of Kanpai Classic London, a chance for us to sample just what diners in Taiwan and China have been raving about for so long.
Kanpai is Japanese for ‘cheers’, an ingenious way of making sure your brand name is repeated numerous times. That said, this was a truly delicious seven course Wagyu journey cooked using a bucket size smokeless and odourless barbecue grill imbedded in each table and cooked and delivered by talented waiter/chefs trained in the art of Yakiniku.
A Wagyu fest from start to finish, from delicate bite size Wagyu tartare with Vostok caviar, and Wagyu yellowfin sushi starters, to a show-stopping order-cut Australian Wagyu rib-eye steak main. In between these headliners we were introduced to many other supporting acts including a Wagyu geta wrapped in lettuce with a miso sauce, and even a Wagyu spring roll with truffle ketchup.
As Soji Hiraide is often quoted as saying “I believe there are only two sides to the world. A world which has tasted Wagyu, and a world which hasn’t.”
As you might expect, this exercise in some of the tenderest meat known to man was backed up with an impressive array of matching wines and cocktails (after indulging in the aforementioned sake of course) including a very acceptable Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve champagne, an equally delicious New Zealand Spy Valley Pino, and for me, a very memorable Omakase Sour, a Japanese Toki whisky cocktail with fresh lemon and a Pinot Noir reduction.
The 86-cover restaurant is set over two floors in London’s legendary Wardour Street with a semi open kitchen area and a seven-seater chef’s table for private dining experiences.
Kanpai Classic London now offers a full a la carte menu and two tasting menus – the brand’s signature 14-course Omakase Menu, and a newly introduced six-course Moriawase Menu.
Kanpai Classic maybe the new kid on London’s food scene, but make no mistake, there is over 20 years of experience behind the concept. Having conquered Taiwan and China’s foodies I suspect it won’t take long to make a mark on a London fine dining food stage always keen to embrace delicious new ideas.
Food Images (C) Andy Mossack and Kanpai Classic.
Tell me more about Kanpai Classic London
Kanpai Classic London, 147-149 Wardour Street, London W1F 8WD
