In his guide to Ravenna, Rupert Parker Views Incredible Mosaics, Dante’s Tomb And The New Byron Museum.
Ravenna, close to the north east coast of Italy in Emilia Romagna, and an hour from Bologna, is home to some of the most exquisite Byzantine art in the world. The city’s golden age began in 402 AD when it became the capital of the Western Roman Empire. Its strategic location near the Adriatic Sea and its surrounding marshlands made it easily defensible. It later fell to the Ostrogoth invasion before becoming a vital city in the Byzantine Empire.
If you like mosaics, then you’re in for a real treat as the city boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage sites. They’re a mix of early Christian and Byzantine churches, baptisteries and mausoleums, most of them exquisitely decorated. They represent an important period in the history of European culture that made Ravenna the Italian capital of mosaic. You can even make your own at workshops run by Koko Mosaico.
Ravenna has also been the home of celebrated literary figures. Dante Alighieri, the author of The Divine Comedy, spent his final years here and died in 1321. English romantic poet Lord George Gordon Byron arrived in 1819, at the age of 31, during his self-imposed exile from England. There’s now a brand new museum in the Palazzo Guiccioli where he lived during his short two year stay.
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Arguably Ravenna’s most famous monument, the Basilica of San Vitale is a masterpiece of Byzantine art and architecture. Completed in 548 AD, the dazzling mosaics depict biblical scenes, imperial portraits, and intricate geometric patterns. The images of Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora, surrounded by their courtiers, are particularly striking.
Located nearby, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia has some of the oldest mosaics dating back to the 5th century. Inside, the ceiling glimmers with a starry sky mosaic, a symbol of eternity and divine promise. The rich blue hues and intricate designs contrast with the warm sunlight streaming through the alabaster windows.
Originally built as a palace church for the Ostrogoth King Theodoric, in the 6th century, the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo is another gem. Its mosaics depict scenes from the life of Christ, as well as processions of saints and martyrs, all rendered in exquisite detail. The contrast between the Gothic and Byzantine styles reflects Ravenna’s diverse cultural history.
Located just outside the city, in the former port town of Classe, the apse of the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare features a stunning mosaic of the saint, the first bishop of Ravenna. He’s depicted standing amidst a lush green landscape dotted with sheep, birds and trees with the sky holding a gemmed cross with Christ’s face at its centre.
Byron Museum
The Byron Museum is a shrine to the poet’s life and works and his time spent in Ravenna. Inside the beautifully restored Palazzo Guiccioli state of the art technologies including interactive displays, audio guides and videos, transport visitors back to the 19th century. They chronicle Byron’s life from his aristocratic beginnings in England to his time in Italy and then his heroic death in Greece.
Visitors are introduced to his early years, marked by privilege and scandal, and his rise to fame, with works like Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage and Don Juan. It was his love affair with Teresa Guiccioli that brought him to Ravenna but she was already married. Strangely, he shared the Palazzo with the couple and Teresa’s most moving mementoes are on display – romantic jewels, locks of hair, even a fragment of Byron’s skin.
Byron was more than just a poet; he was also a fervent supporter of liberty and justice. The museum delves into his involvement in the Italian Risorgimento, the movement for unification and independence to his last days fighting for Greek independence. Recently discovered is a set of frescoes painted on the walls of what was once his study,
He was also a great admirer of Dante Alighieri, whose final resting place is in Ravenna. Just a few steps from the Basilica of San Francesco, the tomb was built between 1780 and 1782 by Camillo Morigia. Inside is a bass-relief by Pietro Lombardo dating back to 1483.There’s also a Dante Museum inside the splendid Franciscan cloisters.
The Pine Forest of Classe, just outside the city, is where Byron took his regular horse rides. It was also the inspiration for the depiction of Purgatory in Dante’s Divine Comedy. It’s hardly changed since those times and today, visitors can explore the forest’s atmospheric trails on foot or by bicycle
Nearby, located in the former sugar factory of Classe, the Classis Ravenna Museum relates the history of the city from its Etruscan-Umbrian origins, through the Romans, the Ostrogoths, and the Byzantines up to the Middle Ages. Impressive ceramics, pottery, weaponry and mosaics, along with graphical and 3D reconstructions, tell the story of the evolution of the city and its territory.
Ravenna is a small city, and most of the UNESCO sites are easily walkable, particularly since the centre is pedestrianised. It’s fun to wander around the narrow alleys, exploring the many bars and restaurants. Don’t miss the newly restored Mercato Coperto where you can buy and sample many of the region’s gourmet delicacies.
Tell Me More About this Insider Guide To Ravenna
Ravenna Turismo has more information about this guide to Ravenna
Emilia Romagna Turismo has information about the Emilia Romagna region.
British Airways flies direct to Bologna from London Heathrow
Hotel Centrale Byron is right in the centre of the city.
Osteria Passatelli in a converted cinema has good pizza.
L’Enoteca Ca’ de Vèn in a traditional building serves local specialities.
La Campaza near Classe has good fish dieshes.
Taverna Byron on ground floor of Palazzo Guiccioli is handy for the Byron Museum.
The restaurant in the Mercato Coperto has good fresh pasta.
Koko Mosaico offers mosaic workshops.
The Ravenna Festival takes place every June and July with over one hundred performances from more than a thousand artists.
