In his Insider Guide to Nimes, Rupert Parker Finds Well Preserved Roman Architecture In The South Of France
Nîmes, the capital of the Gard region and known as “French Rome”, beautifully fuses ancient Roman history, rich cultural traditions, and modern Provençal charm, and my Insider Guide to Nîmes will show you why.
Founded as a Roman colony around the 1st century BC, it became a bustling town and eventually one of the wealthiest cities in Roman Gaul. Much survives and remains one of the most Roman of cities outside Italy.
Beyond its Roman monuments, Nîmes boasts a charming Old Town filled with narrow cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and tiny squares. The Cathedral of Notre Dame et Saint Castor, dating back to the 11th century, is a beautiful example of Romanesque Gothic architecture. The streets are perfect for wandering, with many cafes, shops, and artisan boutiques.
Stop by the Place aux Herbes, a lively square where locals gather to enjoy coffee, or dine at one of the many bistros. Les Halles de Nîmes, the city’s bustling covered market, is a great place to sample regional specialties. Here, you’ll find everything from Brandade de Morue (a creamy dish made from salt cod and olive oil) to Tapenade, a paste made from olives, capers, and anchovies.
Arena of Nîmes
Nîmes has one of the world’s best preserved Roman amphitheatres. Built around 70 AD, it once hosted thrilling gladiator battles and entertained audiences of up to 24,000 people. Its elliptical shape, towering arches, and intricate design reflect the architectural prowess of the Romans. The two tiers of 60 arches once held up to 24,000 spectators. Take a self-guided tour through the arena, learning about its history and construction.
Multimedia displays and audio guides provide insights into the lives of the gladiators and the engineering marvels that made such grand structures possible. For a truly immersive experience, plan your visit during the re-enactment season, when the arena transforms into an authentic gladiatorial stage with actors recreating scenes from ancient Roman battles Today, the arena continues to be a lively cultural hub, hosting concerts, festivals, and even the annual bullfighting event, Feria de Nîmes.
Maison Carrée
Just a short walk from the arena lies the Maison Carrée, a beautifully preserved Roman temple dedicated to the sons of Agrippa, one of Emperor Augustus’s close associates. Built around 2 AD, it remains one of the finest examples of classical Roman architecture. Its striking features include a pristine white limestone facade, tall Corinthian columns, and a grand portico.
Over the centuries, it’s been repurposed many times from a meeting hall to a Christian church. Inside, there’s a museum with films and exhibitions highlighting the Roman history of Nîmes and the importance of the temple in ancient times. Its design has inspired numerous famous buildings, including the Église de la Madeleine in Paris and the Virginia State Capitol in the United States.
The Temple of Diana and Jardins de la Fontaine
The Temple of Diana is another fascinating Roman relic, although somewhat of a mystery. Located within the lush Jardins de la Fontaine, it dates back to the 2nd century AD and was likely dedicated to the goddess Diana. Historians are still unsure of its exact purpose, as it was possibly a library or meeting hall rather than a traditional temple.
The Jardins de la Fontaine themselves are worth exploring. Created in the 18th century, they were among the first public gardens in Europe. Built around a natural spring that supplied water to the Roman city, the gardens are designed in a classical French style, with pathways, statues, and decorative pools.
Gorges du Gardon
A short drive from the city, Gorges du Gardon is a striking canyon carved by the Gardon River, 22 kms long. This remarkable landscape offers a unique blend of natural beauty, twinned with stunning geological formations. It’s also a haven for a variety of wildlife and plant species. There are numerous hiking trails of varying difficulty levels, taking you up and down and along the sides of the gorge.
One of the most popular trails leads to the Hermitage of Saint Vérédème, little more than a cave in the side of the canyon. The river is ideal for canoeing and kayaking, particularly in spring and early summer when the water levels are at their highest. Cycle paths, winding around the top of the gorge, offer stunning views of the river and the terrain beyond.
Musée de la Romanité
Back in the city, there’s on more monument to visit, this time a modern one. Enveloped in an undulating façade of translucent glass, designed to mimic the folds of a Roman toga, this new archaeological museum, facing the Arena, can’t be missed. Opened in 2018, it creates an architectural juxtaposition of the ancient and the contemporary.
Inside, the museum houses an extensive collection of Roman artefacts, including mosaics, statues, pottery from Nîmes and the area. Interactive displays, virtual reality experiences, and multimedia presentations bring the Roman world to life. The rooftop terrace offers a spectacular view of the amphitheatre and the city beyond and even has its own restaurant, La Table Du 2. It’s a fitting place to end my stay.
Tell Me More About This Insider Guide To Nîmes
Ryanair flies direct to Nîmes airport from London Stansted.
The Stansted Express is the fastest way to the airport from central London.
Nîmes Tourisme has information about the places mentioned in this Insider Guide to Nîmes.
Tourisme Gard has information about the region.
The Appart’City Confort Nîmes Arenes is in the historic centre, one minute from the Arena.
La Table du 2, on the rooftop of the museum,,serves inventive cuisine by Franck Putelat with a breath-taking view of the Arena.
La Table d’Assas uses fresh seasonal produce in its weekly changing menus.
