Andy Mossack visits Switzerland’s Italian speaking region for his Insider Guide to Lugano.
High up in the rarified air of the grand terrace of the Villa Principe Leopoldo Hotel the solitude was breathtaking. Nothing but the scent of lemon trees and birdsong and the beautiful bay of Lugano spread out far below. I was, to all intents and purposes, having a proper moment.
Lugano is undoubtedly the crown jewel of Ticino, the Italian-speaking southernmost canton of Switzerland. But speaking Italian is just the tip of the glacier in Ticino, if you excuse the pun. Everything here is undeniably Italian; the architecture, the mediterranean climate (even in winter), the food, and even the way of life reflects its Alpine neighbour just a stone’s throw away. It’s not surprising really when you consider that until the arrival of the railway service through the Gotthard Pass in 1882, Ticino was pretty much cut off from the rest of Switzerland and a relatively poor canton.
So much so, that it is still considered to be the least expensive region of Switzerland and even that’s saying something, when so many foreign workers still flock back across the border to Italy to do their shopping.
Be that as it may, Ticino is blessed with some of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Europe and its colourful history is most evident in its cities and towns – Bellinzona the fortified capital, Lugano with both arms around the bay of Lake Lugano and Locarno sitting proudly on the northern shore of Lake Maggiore as does Ascona. All four are well worthy of a visit, and I still have very fond memories of an overnight stop at Ascona during its famous annual jazz festival as part of my epic drive around the Grand Tour of Switzerland.
But it’s lovely Lugano, Ticino’s radiantly popular daughter, which always seems to steal the limelight. Nicknamed by some locally as Monte Carlo by the Lake, it is hard to believe this magnet for A-listers was once a simple fishing village. Today, the elegant sweeping lakeside promenade and its backdrop of towering peaks is the picture postcard money shot, together with the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, but I want to explore beyond this and uncover the Lugano that locals have fallen in love with.
So let’s explore some of her less obvious attractions awaiting you in my insider guide to Lugano.
Lugano Old Town Culinary Walking Tour
No guide to Lugano would be complete without a proper nod to its early history. A fabulous way to see the town and learn about its history is to discover its chequered past while on a walking culinary tour. In the company of Romina Poretti, I enjoyed a memorable evening strolling the cobbled streets and piazzas, listening to her stories and stopping off every now and then for some local Ticino specialities and a sip or three of local wines. One of which was Merlot Bianco, something of a Ticino legend since 1986, when it was created as an ingenious solution to its overabundance of Merlot grapes in the canton. And it works! Try it and find out for yourself.
We popped down the side alley of the Church of St Lawrence to gaze at some remarkable recently discovered frescoes, and strolled through the impressive green oasis that is Park Ciani, once the back garden estate of the Ciani brothers, a noble Milanese family.
Walk the Olive Trail
While you can always take in Lugano’s stunning views from the lake aboard one of the numerous ferries and water taxis, the Sentiero dell’Olivo is an easy 3.5 km lakeside trail offering up some extraordinary views of its own. Starting in Castagnola (a short bus ride from the town centre) the path meanders its way around the lake to tiny Gandria, a charming car-free village clinging to the foot of Monte Brè mountain, and at one time an infamous smugglers haunt.
You’ll pass by ancient olive groves, chestnut forests and the odd gated grand home, pausing occasionally to read points of interest boards along the route. It’s an undemanding peaceful stroll with some spectacular views (although it was briefly interrupted by a school outing group when I was last there). Gandria is a popular lunch spot (try eating on the narrow balcony of Locanda Gandriese if you want some vertigo-inducing excitement) while the village’s baroque Church of Saint Vigilio dating back to 1463 is a remarkable place to visit.
You can either walk back or take a bus, or better still, there is a regular ferry service from the village dock back to Lugano.
Funiculars are all the rage
Mountains are tricky beasts to climb at the best of times, but taking a funicular right from the centre of town makes light of all that. The San Salvatore Funicular nickname the ‘Sugarloaf Mountain of Switzerland’ was built in 1890 and runs from the Paradiso neighbourhood right up to the summit in two stages. Up at the top, a glorious 360° panorama awaits with views of the city and lake, as well as Monte Generoso in the Prealps, and across to Como. You can have a very civilized snack or lunch on the terrace of Restaurant Vetta, and there are numerous hiking paths including a family-oriented circular nature trail to explore.
Over to the other side of Lugano, the Monte Brè Funicular, opened in 1908, takes you 1,600 metres up to the summit of Brè in 10 minutes for equally impressive views and trails, with the small village of Brè to explore.
Bellinzona
Just a stop or two on the train from Lugano, Bellinzona, Ticino’s medieval capital is well worth a visit. It was so strategically important as both a gateway into Italy and to the Alps that not one, but three castles were built to defend it: Castelgrande ( 1st century), Monte Bello (14th century) and Sasso Corbaro (15th century). All three castles, the immensely thick city wall and the ramparts are now UNESCO World Heritage recognised and are magnificent examples of just how important a city this was.
A further seven buildings in the medieval old town are also labelled as Swiss heritage sites of national significance. Even the railway station is an impressive building, one of the first to be built for the Gotthard Railway which transformed the lives of everyone who lived here giving them direct access to the German speaking part of Switzerland for the first time. It all adds up to a fascinating city to explore. It’s a time machine to the Middle Ages and beyond and I absolutely loved it.
Lugano is a very special place. And its no wonder Prince Leopoldo built his villa to look down on it. I reckon like me, he had a few proper moments on that grand terrace too.
Images (C) Andy Mossack, Silvano Zeiter (ferry) and Enrico Boggia (feature pic)
Tell me more about this Insider Guide to Lugano.
Ticino Tourism and Switzerland Tourism have information on all the locations mentioned here and more about Lugano, Ticino and the rest of Switzerland.
The Ticino Ticket Enjoy free public transport and discounts on attractions for the duration of your stay in any hotel, hostel and campsite affiliated to Ticino Tourism.
Travel Switzerland Book your train tickets from Zurich Airport to Lugano via the Travel Switzerland website.
Monte Brè Funicular, San Salvatore Funicular
Recommended Hotels in Lugano
The View Lugano Clue is in the name. Luxury boutique hotel on Paradiso with stupendous views. A free electric Smart car available for guests to use locally. Excellent restaurant. Check out Andy’s review here.
Villa Principe Leopoldo. Magnificent luxury hotel on Golden Hill with a royal heritage. Stunning views, beautiful gardens, outstanding restaurant. Read Andy’s review here.
Splendide Royal Hotel Lugano. An iconic belle époque landmark right on the Lake Lugano promenade. Read Andy’s review here.
Recommended Restaurants in Lugano
The Principe Leopoldo Restaurant
The View Fine Dining Restaurant
