Rupert Parker Dons His Hiking Boots And Explores The Bohuslän Archipelago in his insider guide to Island hopping in West Sweden
You might not think of Sweden as a beach destination but, in summer locals flock to its 267,000 islands for sand and sun. On its West coast the Bohuslän archipelago is made up of over 8,000 islands and islets. It stretches from Gothenburg to the Norwegian border, offering a blend of serene nature, charming villages, and a rich cultural heritage. Think smooth granite rocks, crystal-clear waters with summer’s clear blues skies contrasting with lush forested greenery.
I fly into Gothenburg, the gateway to the islands, but also an interesting place to start and finish my Insider Guide To Island Hopping In West Sweden
It’s Sweden’s second city, an attractive mixture of green and water. It’s also the largest port in the Nordics and the centre is also criss-crossed by canals, lined with parks and linked by cobbled streets. It’s worth climbing the hill in the Haga district for the view of the city from the Skansen Kronan fortress. The sun is shining, perfect weather for island hopping.
Marstrand
It’s around an hour by bus north west to Koön, the island which sits opposite Marstrand. They’re separated by a five minute ferry ride and I’m soon in its attractive harbour. I’m planning to walk all round the island, around 5km. The walk begins at the colourful wooden houses on the seafront, overlooked by the Carlsten Fortress, the imposing 17th-century fortification.
Marstrand’s prosperity peaked when it was declared a free port in 1775 by King Gustav III of Sweden. This exempted the town from certain taxes and customs duties, attracting merchants and fostering a vibrant, international trading environment. It had a thriving herring fishery, now sadly gone, but these days it’s become the playground of the rich and famous.
Soon I’m out into open countryside, following the coast and I pass several swimming spots. At the westernmost point is Skallens Fyr lighthouse where two bodies of water, Skagerrak and Kattegat, meet. It can be rough here but today all is quiet and I make my way back along the south shore of the island. Near the town, I climb up to the fortress and take in the view.
Koön
It’s only lunchtime, so I take the ferry back to Koön and choose the most difficult of three well-marked trail loops. This path goes up and down over huge rocks and across large areas of marshland. It could be slippery in wet weather but today all is dry. Wooden staircases and raised platforms have been constructed along the length of the route.
Throughout there are tremendous views of the Carlsten Fortress and the island of Åstol in the north. Towards the end of the walk I come across rock shelters and three 7.5mm cannon emplacements, relics of the cold war. These defences were blasted out of the rock and designed to protect against conventional, biological and chemical weapons. The battery was decommissioned in 2004.
It’s been a glorious day of sunshine, with little wind, perfect weather for exploring the islands. I might even be tempted to swim if it gets warmer.
Dyrön
Next day I catch the bus east to meet the ferry to Dyrön – it’s a small boat taking just foot passengers and bikes. After 25 minutes I’m soon disembarking at the island’s port. The name “Dyrön” is believed to be derived from Old Norse, with “dyr” meaning “deer,” indicating a profusion of wildlife. The island has been inhabited since the Bronze Age and its strategic location made it an important point for maritime navigation and trade in the North Sea.
I’m going to be taking the Dyröleden trail which follows the coast all the way around, an easy walk. There are no cars here so this is really unspoilt nature with few people on the paths. Forest gives way to wider stretches of rocks, and I’m soon at the tiny harbour of Nordhamnen on the other side of the island
Lunch is at Trålverket Restaurant, fish of course, with stunning sea views. The path then climbs up on wooden stairways over the boulders passing the narrow Dynes Ravine. There are views of the tiny island of Åstol and then a long wooden boardwalk brings me back close to the harbour. I have time before the boat, so I jump into the sea for a refreshing dip and surprisingly not too cold at this time of year.
Ramsvikslandet
The sun is still shining next morning so I travel 125 km north to Ramsvikslandet, once a peninsula but now an island, cut off from the mainland by the Sote Canal. Its unique rock formations include large granite outcrops which, in the 19th century, contributed to Sweden’s building boom. The stone was cut here and exported all over the country to be used for civic buildings.
In the northern part of the island, I begin in the Ramsvikslandet nature reserve, famously known as the Kingdom of the Rocks. The trail leads over vast stretches of wave worn rocks broken up by clusters of trees and marsh. There’s a patch of forest and then I meet the sea at Grosshamn.
I continue along the coast to Sote Huvund, a treeless stretch of pink granite rocks.
Stonecutters were once at work here and there are piles of half-finished blocks scattered around the landscape. Haby Bay is one of the best places to swim in this part of the island, but I’m slightly pressed for time. I cross the swing bridge over the canal back to the mainland and catch the bus to Smögen, my final destination.
Smögen
One of the most famous tourist spots in Bohuslän, Smögen is hard to beat. Its prosperity was based on herring but in the 19th century it diversified, expanding into other maritime industries. This was when the town’s iconic wooden buildings were constructed, lending the centre a unique architectural unity.
On the seafront colourful wooden boathouses, lining the 600m harbour, have been converted into shops, cafés and restaurants. Fish is definitely on the menu and boats still arrive here early morning with their catch auctioned at the quayside market.
There are short walks around the island but I’m going to be tackling the 24th stage of the 376km Kuststigen trail which means taking the bus east to Tullboden. It drops me off at the ferry dock and I turn around and set out back to Smögen. The varied landscape includes forest, marsh and treeless expanses of rocks. Abandoned quarries emerge in the middle of the woodland, then I drop down to the water.
All is peaceful here, few people, and an abundance of birdlife. There are views out to the other islands from the tiny fishing villages sitting on the shoreline. The last and largest of these is Hovenäset, whose wooden houses date from the beginning of the 1900s. The trail skirts the town of Kungshamn before leading across the busy bridge to Smögen. It’s the end of my journey and I reach the hotel just as it begins to rain.
West Sweden’s islands are all easily accessible from Gothenburg and there’s a good bus network. In mid-summer they attract many Swedish tourists, so better to visit in late spring or early autumn when prices are lower. All the walking trails are well signed and it’s impossible to get lost. And, after a hard day’s hiking, you’re rewarded with the freshest seafood you can imagine.
Tell Me More About this Insider Guide To Island Hopping In West Sweden
Visit Sweden has information about this Insider Guide To Island Hopping In West Sweden and the rest of the country.
West Sweden has information about the region.
KE Adventure offers 8 days of self-guided West Sweden Island Hopping from £1020 without flights.
BA flies direct daily from Heathrow to Gothenburg.
Gothenburg
The Comfort Hotel Göteborg has views over the port and Asian Fusion at its OGBG Bar & Restaurant.
Marstrand
Marstrands Havshotell has rooms with balconies offering stunning sea views and also good food.
Grand Tenan Restaurant in Grand Hotel Marstrand is famous for its garlic gratinated langoustine.
Smögen
Smögens Hafvsbad is in a charming 1900’s heritage building with spa and excellent food.
Skärets Krog has wonderful seafood on the harbour at Smögenbryggan.
