In His Insider Guide To Bahrain, Rupert Parker Discovers Ancient Ruins, Exotic Souks And Fine Beaches.
Bahrain is an archipelago of 33 small islands in the Persian Gulf with a long history. Back in 3000 BC, it was the heart of the Dilmun civilization and an influential trade hub between Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley. Its name means “two waters,” a reflection of the freshwater springs gushing up from the seas surrounding it.
Known as the “Island of Pearls”, until the discovery of oil in 1932, it was the first Gulf state to find and exploit these resources. Today its capital, Manama, serves as a cultural and economic hub, blending modern skyscrapers with traditional souks. The annual Formula 1 Bahrain Grand Prix attracts motorsport enthusiasts from across the globe.
My flight lands on Muharraq Island, the most northernmost of the archipelago and home to Muharraq City, the capital of Bahrain until 1923. It’s worth lingering here to explore its narrow streets with traditional Bahraini houses, many of which have been restored as museums and art galleries.
You can also take the Pearling Trail, the UNESCO-listed 3.5km path that tells the story of Bahrain’s pearl-diving industry. It links various sites involved in pearling, most of them dating from the 19th century. If you’re here in December, the Muharraq Nights Celebration features design, fashion, food, and music across the historic neighbourhoods of the city.
Heading south, a causeway leads to the main island of Bahrain and the capital Manama, the largest city in the country. At its heart and a symbol of the country’s modernity is Bahrain Bay. This is a striking waterfront development featuring high-rise buildings, luxury hotels, and gourmet restaurants.
Stroll along the promenade, enjoy views of the bay, or dine at one of the many restaurants. My unique way of appreciating its architecture is to take a stand up paddle boat tour around its waterways. And of course I end up in the water.
For a true taste of old Bahrain, head to the Manama Souq. Located near Bab Al Bahrain, this warren of narrow streets and alleyways sells everything from spices and traditional sweets to handcrafted jewellery and textiles. Don’t miss the chance to buy Bahraini pearls or dine in one of its many authentic cafes.
Every Muslim country has its main mosque and Manama has one of the largest in the world. Built in 1988, at a cost of US$20 million, the Al-Fateh Grand Mosque covers an area of 6,500 m2 and can hold up to 7,000 worshippers. Its two minarets dominate the city and the interior is elaborately decorated with Italian marble, Austrian glass and Indian teak.
Visitors are welcome and can join guided tours to learn about Islamic culture and the mosque’s design. Don’t worry about their dress code as suitable coverings are supplied. If you’re lucky to be there at prayer times you can witness the Iman making one of his calls to the city.
The Bahrain National Museum is one of the oldest in the Gulf region. Its exhibits span over 6,000 years of Bahraini history, including artefacts from the Dilmun civilization, Portuguese and Persian rule. Highlights include a reconstructed A’ali burial mound, dating back to the Dilmun period, and an interactive display about Bahrain’s pearl diving heritage.
Around 20 minutes from Manama is the UNESCO listed Qal’at al-Bahrain or Bahrain Fort. This archaeological site dates back to 2300 BC and has been a focal point of numerous civilizations, from the Dilmun to the Portuguese. Wander through the ruins and explore the adjacent museum to learn about the site’s layered history. Perched on a hill overlooking the Gulf, the fort is particularly enchanting at sunset.
Around half an hour to the south is home of the annual Bahrain Grand Prix. The circuit offers visitors the chance to experience high-speed racing or take a guided tour of the facilities. Adjacent is a professional go-karting track, open to everyone, a great way to boost your adrenalin levels and test your driving skills
14 km off the coast of Bahrain is Jarada Island, and the boat journey takes around 45 minutes. Basically it’s a sandbank which emerges and disappears with the tides. At high tide, it vanishes completely beneath the waves. As the waters subside, the island reveals itself as a strip of powdery white sand surrounded by crystal-clear shallows.
The shallow waters around the island teem with marine life and snorkelers can expect to see colourful fish darting through the coral reefs, even a sea turtle gliding gracefully beneath the waves. It’s essential to bring everything you might need, including water, food, sunscreen, although most tour boats provide these.
Bahrain makes an ideal stopover if you’re flying to and from the Middle East, You can also combine it with visits to the Emirates as they’re all very close. It’s an interesting mix of old and new, with a fascinating history. Food is excellent, particularly the authentic local dishes, and alcohol is widely available. As you might expect, most hotels offer high end luxury.
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Gulf Air flies direct twice daily from London Heathrow to Bahrain.
Bahrain has more information on this insider guide to Bahrain and travel information
The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain makes a comfortable base in Manama.
Raffles Al Areen Palace Bahrain is an oasis of luxury close to the Formula One Circuit.
Timeout Market has a variety of food stalls with dishes from all over the world.
Agaily & Karak restaurant serves up authentic local fare by Bahrain Bay.
The Room is a cool bar and restaurant with a great selection of malt whisky.
Haji’s Café in Souq al Manama served delicious Bahraini breakfasts.
The Beach Bar at Solymar Hotel on Amwaj Island is good for sundowners.
