Donna Richardson offers her guide to skiing in Carinthia, a great option for skiers seeking adventure experiences this winter/spring that won’t break the bank.
Located in southern Austria, bordering Italy and Slovenia, you’ll discover majestic mountains, glistening lakes, and picturesque slopes. Carinthia, known locally as Kärnten, is one of the best-kept secrets in the ski world. The sun shines often in the land of the lakes and the soaring peaks and with the absence of mass crowds making it the ideal choice for an affordable and adventurous ski trip.
Austria is renowned for its skiing with some top resorts served by Innsbruck and Salzburg airports. However, Carinthia, accessed by Austria’s third airport, Klagenfurt, offers the chance to get off-piste and do some ski touring and powder skiing.
The area has over 24 ski areas spanning 800km. Up to late spring the snowfall in the mountains is plentiful. Unlike other Alpine ski resorts, Carinthia is wild and rugged with ungroomed slopes and authentic freeride terrain perfect for those who crave adventure.
After the First World War in 1918, the Austria-Hungary empire was dissolved, and new countries were formed, but Carinthia remained a semi-autonomous state. During the Treaty of Neuberg, the Habsburgs divided their territories, and the Duchy of Carinthia became part of Inner Austria.
Western Carinthia was once a place where people mined a lot of gold, especially in Heiligenblut. Then in the early 20th century, tourism became popular as hikers arrived to explore. After the Second World War, skiing became a big deal when tourists began to arrive. Now, in my guide to skiing in Carinthia, you can find great slopes for free riding, and ski touring.
Klagenfurt
Klagenfurt – a city on Lake Wörthersee is worth spending some time here if you can. It is the largest city in the region – somewhat of a Renaissance gem built by the Italians. Culture vultures can discover its grand castles, art museums and the ancient farmers market. Visit the Lindwurm fountain which legend says was haunted by a foul beast or find inspiration in the Coat of Arms Hall at the Landhaus which has over 600 aristocratic coats of arms inside. Tourists can also enjoy the Pyramidenkogel Viewing Tower – the world’s largest wooden viewing platform and once you reach the top you can enjoy amazing views of Lake Wörthersee.
Innerkrems
Just a 70-mile drive away is the ski resort of Innerkrems in the heart of the Krems Valley in the Nockberge mountains. This is a small village and resort like no other, where you’ll have to use your own steam to get up the hill. Innerkrems is famed for its challenging freeride ski terrain ideal for ski touring at 1,550 and 2,200 metres. It used to be one of the region’s biggest players, but the lift system was removed so you’ll have to climb the mountain on skins.
This offers a challenging ski touring experience. You get the feeling of being in an abandoned ski resort, with no après other than the facilities at the local inns. Many tourists have yet to rediscover it. The Lehrpfad Gruenleitentennock route is ideal for beginners, but you can forget well-groomed blue runs, it is all through the forests and off piste. However, the Koenigstuhl farther afield also offers red and blue runs into the village.
Bad Kleinkirchheim
The spa town of Bad Kleinkirchheim, (also known as BKK) is one of the country’s cherished resorts. On the drive to the resort, you’ll pass the home of ski legend Franz Klammer who won the 1976 Olympics.
You’ll also be able to pause for a moment beside the serene Lake Millstat which offers stunning mountain reflections on clear days.
Bad Kleinkirchheim boasts 24 lift and cable car facilities linking the ski area. It is also good for families, providing an affordable skiing experience with the ‘Family Euro’ ticket, allowing children up to 12 years old to ski for just a euro a day. More experienced skiers can access challenging red runs and race through Europe’s largest pine forest. Unsurprisingly, the area is best for competent skiers who will love to try the long black piste known as the Franz Klammer World Cup run. Here you can beat the queues and have multiple runs despite the ageing lift system.
Grossglockner and Heiligenblut
Grossglockner (Großglockner), known as ‘great bell’, was our final destination: Heiligenblut – a village on the highest mountain in Carinthia. Some 3,000 metres above sea level, snow is almost all year round, particularly on the glacier. Heilingenblut is an authentic gold digger village. These days the nuggets are long gone, but you can still enjoy goldwashing in the streams. As you climb the hill towards the ski lifts, you can’t help but notice the Church of the Holy Blood which strikes a dramatic pose against the backdrop of the enigmatic peak.
In the year 914, a Danish prince brought the ‘blood of Christ’ from Constantinople to the village, where it still lives today. The church spire reaches up to the heavens past the very top of southern Austria. During the snow-free period, the Grossglockner High Alpine Road links Carinthia to Salzburg, At Christmas time, the carolling dates back to the 16th century.
Winterlust on the mountain
The Grossglockner/Heiligenblut ski region is great for the whole family with over 20 pistes which are ideal for beginners to intermediates, Under 10s can ski with a “Snowman Ticket” for 9.5 Euros- so it is value for money quality skiing. There are 16 lifts and when you reach the middle station, there are two options to ski. Beginners and intermediates will love taking the ski train – a colourful collection of vintage eighties alpine carriages. This takes you to some ‘steep’ blue runs popular with school groups. More experienced skiers will find a stimulating terrain on the Grossglockner side, ideal for off-piste powder skiing.
Additionally, the Mölltal Glacier guarantees snow until May and Nassfeld bordering Italy is home to the longest downhill ski race in the world the Schlag das Assinger. There are so many options for the avid skier visiting this region. So, if you’re looking for pure skiing without the frills, Ski Weekends caters to groups of friends or families. The Carinthian motto of relaxation and enjoying life is reflected in everything they do from skiing to the après. Choose Carinthia for the perfect short break for the adventure enthusiast, with the right mix of adrenaline and relaxation.
Tell me more about this guide to skiing in Carinthia
Fly with Ryanair to Klagenfurt. On the return home fly from Salzburg back to London Stansted, also with Ryanair.
Ryanair flights start at £30. Prices may vary during ski season.
Twice weekly flights from London and a weekly flight from Manchester.
Find out more about FlexiSki and Ski Weekends adventures at Flexi Ski or Ski Weekends
For more about the region visit Carinthia Tourism
Where to stay
The Alm Resort Frühauf Innerkrems
The all-inclusive Alm-Resort Frühauf Innerkrems, owned by Christian and his two sons, is a stunning spa hotel. Food here is superb. The raclette is a must-try, you can cook steak, fish, and cheese on it, washed down with local Carinthian white wine. Those who do not want to ski can enjoy the incredible spa area, with two pools.
The Kolmhof Hotel, BKK
A luxurious accommodation with spacious rooms, a double bed adorned with vibrant Austrian-style pillows, and a large balcony with stunning mountain views. The Kolmhof Hotel has ski-in and ski-out access to the slopes.
Hotel Kärntnerhof, Helingblut
The Hotel Kärntnerhof is run by two sisters who bought the property in 1999 with their mum and dad who ran it before them in the 1960s. Their father was a mountain guide who took guests up Grossglockner 80 times during his career. The rooms are spacious and modern, with a widescreen TV, a bathroom, and a huge comfy bed. The food is delicious and they serve a mean tiramisu.
Where to eat and drink
Maibrunnhüt in BKK’s slopes offers generous portions of mountain food. I opted for the tasty schnitzel that paired perfectly with Austrian beer.
Trattlers Einkehr BKK: Franz Klammer enjoyed his 70th birthday at Trattlers Einkehr restaurant. His gold jacket hangs up on the wall with a signed poster from the film. All the staff are dressed in traditional costumes and can enjoy generous portions of local food.
Hotel Larchenhof is a popular haunt of Steve Allen, the guy who makes Muppets characters. During one of his stays, he gifted a little guy called Germknodel to the hotel. We tried a local brew made from the roots of a local tree, a truly potent concoction which made for an authentic experience. The views were as astounding as the sunset.
Klammer Photo credit: Kaernten Klammer by Groeger Kaerntenwerbung[
