Lucy Daltroff enjoys Glasgow’s lesser-known offerings and even plays the bagpipes on a visit to Scotland’s largest city.
“Try straightening your fingers” said Ruaridh Brown while giving me a quick lesson on how to play the bagpipes.
I was in Glasgow at the National Piping Centre and I don’t think I will ever forget our spectacular arrival, as we were piped in with a moving greeting from Ruaridh (pronounced Rory) as we approached the building.
In the museum we learnt everything about this woodwind instrument which uses enclosed reeds (Drones) fed from a reservoir of air in the form of a bag (Chanter) and it can’t get quieter or louder- and hasn’t really changed over the last 400 years. Bagpipes are quite expensive, says Ruaridh “but they will last a lifetime”
Although I always see men playing, I found it quite gratifying to hear that currently, Scotland’s National Piper, is a woman – Louise Marshall.
I reached Glasgow on an Avanti West Coast train from London, Euston which took Four and a half hours and my stay was totally enhanced by staying in the comfortable, recently renovated, Radisson Blu Hotel, in the heart of the city… just a few steps from my arrival at Central Station.
Later, I had a first taste of the city, by taking the sightseeing Hop On and Hop Off Bus on the newly launched Yellow route. While the Red route goes to the main sights in town, this new tour visits the east and south of the city including some of the lesser known neighbourhoods. It was great that during the 90-minute journey the weather was good enough to sit upstairs on the open deck.
The 19 places of interest include Glasgow Green – a 136 acre site within walking distance of the city centre. It was given to the people in the year 1450 and initially used for washing, bleaching linen, grazing, drying fishing nets and swimming. Today it is a recreational space with many notable monuments and the glorious Doulton fountain, the largest fountain ever constructed in ceramic.
Another stop takes me to the Ibrox Stadium, home of Glasgow Rangers Football Club, while my own final destination was Pollock Park, to visit the renowned Burrell Collection. I so enjoyed the journey, with all the stories and explanations at every stop. The driver was personally helpful too, as the Burrell Halt was temporarily closed, he went out of his way to get me as close as he could to the entrance to the Park.
The name Charles Rennie Mackintosh is so synonymous with the artistic history of Glasgow that I felt impelled to visit “Mackintosh at the Willow” one of the oldest tea rooms in Scotland, at 217 Sauchiehall Street. This gorgeous, A listed heritage building in Glasgow city centre is the only surviving Tea Room designed entirely by Mackintosh and was commissioned by the tea entrepreneur Miss Catherine Cranston in 1903. Now, after two years of restoration, it has returned to its former glory and is an excellent showcase for the famous architect, designer, water colourist and artist.
The extensive tea menu makes it quite difficult to choose but I settled on a South African Red Bush Rooibos. The servers were efficient and the presentation good, but come on Willow, the sandwiches were bland and unsophisticated, when a full tea experience is your main feature. There was a good selection of gifts in the adjoining shop and the upstairs rooms displayed examples of Charles Mackintosh’s unique style.
It was such a lovely visit to Glasgow, but too short! I am sure I will be back before too long.
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