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Early evening and the ancient Palazzo Candiotti in Foligno has a big smile on her face. It’s just like old times. A proper baroque banquet. The Festa d’Oro e di Vento no less, with 250 guests commemorating the 70th anniversary of the modern Quintana joust. I can almost feel this grand old dame sighing in contentment in her Sunday best. If I didn’t know better, I would think I’d been teleported back to the 17th century.
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The immense cathedral-like spires of the Northern Dolomites are the perfect venue for tackling one of Europe’s classic long distance treks. Forget about luxury hotels, the only accommodation is in mountain huts, known as Rifugios and I’ll have to carry everything on my back. Walking the Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites runs for around 140 km and my eight day walk will involve daily distances of between 9 and 16.5 km, with ascents of up to 900 m and descents of up to 1,300 m. Will I be tough enough?
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Anna is teaching me the highly skilled art of Tyrolean cooking at the chalet Luech de Curijel in Selva and she’s not looking best pleased. It seems my Apfelstrudel and spinach crafuncins, two of the simplest of local dishes here in Val Gardena, are not up to standard. Now when your teacher possesses hands with the power to knead dough as if it were mash potato, generating hostility is not a healthy option.
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Our first evening briefing in the lounge of Hotel Leone was preceded by wine and nibbles, so naturally, on the pretext of looking to store much needed energy for the next day’s trek, the majority of my nibbles were gratefully received . After all, you don’t go on a walking holiday in Le Marche trekking the mighty Sibillini national park with hunger pains, that would be foolish wouldn’t it?
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A lone bell tolls from somewhere close by, not an unfamiliar sound when you’re in Italy, but at this moment it’s rather more poignant. I’m inside Ferrara’s ancient synagogue, still going strong in the heart of the former medieval ghetto, nearly 600 years after it was built. Tonight though it’s completely rammed, standing room only for the Friday night service and Rabbi Luciano Caro is beaming from ear to ear. Is Emilia-Romagna Italy’s Jewish heart? This region is a veritable treasure trove of Jewish history, and the cities of Bologna, Cento and Ferrara in particular, owe their very existence to their Jewish communities.
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I think it might have been the way the sunlight reflected off the water under the talking statue, or perhaps the glimpse of the Spanish Steps still visible in the distance, or maybe it was just the time of day and the people around me. But whatever it was, the Via del Babuino is my favourite street in Rome and will always have a place in my heart.
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In a town where British accents are practically non existent, the odds of finding an Italian taxi driver speaking broad Scottish were lower than winning the lottery. But, when Roberto picked us up outside our villa it seemed Rob Roy had crossed over to Italy. We were renting a villa in Pietrasanta, courtesy of Bridgewater Travel, a family-run Tuscan luxury rentals specialist and we were taking a cab in for a wander around Pietrasanta, the beautiful city of marble, the legendary coastal retreat of artists and sculptors and the Florentine well-to-do.
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The Emilia Romagna region along Italy’s Adriatic coastal stretch is impressive. Miles and miles of soft sandy beaches, all of them clean as a whistle and family friendly. This is the thing about most Italian resort beaches, they are set up perfectly.From Lido di Volano in the north by the Po Delta to Cattolica in the south close to the border with the Marche region.There are play areas for kids where parents can sit and relax and still keep an eye on the little ones, excellent clean toilets and wash rooms and plenty of available beds and umbrellas.
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