Rupert Parker visits the largest royal palace in the world in Caserta, near Naples.

There’s an old saying “See Naples and die” based on the high incidence of cholera in the 19^th century, but on my visit the challenge is to taste over 200 different wines and live to tell the tale. I’m here for the annual Campania Stories event, where producers showcase their different wines, and it’s held inside the hallowed walls of the Santa Donna Regina church.