Andy Mossack shows why Dusseldorf for a long weekend is a perfect fit.
Anyone who scoffs at the idea of visiting Dusseldorf for a long weekend is clearly one of the uninformed because this city on the banks of the Rhine will surprise, delight and entertain even the most serious of doubters.
I was in the city because it was the start and finish of a seven-night Rhine River cruise on VIVA One with VIVA Cruises which has its base in Dusseldorf. It was the perfect opportunity for me to explore it for a few days and get acquainted with somewhere I only really knew as the hometown of Kraftwerk, a 70s techno band who announced themselves to the world via their smash hit Autobahn.
Let’s start with a geeky fact. This is the only German city that still has the word dorf in its name. It translates as village, and it was indeed once a village on the river Dussel which can still be seen around the city.
It was a few days before Scotland were playing their first Euros 24 match against Germany and the city was full of kilted Scots having a fantastic time in the historic bars of the old town. They were taking full advantage of the seemingly bottomless supply of Altbier, Dusseldorf’s famously dark malty ale.
Mainly I suspect, because traditiionally grumpy waiters will keep bringing fresh beers unless you place a coaster on top of your glass. It’s not a rip off, it’s just a long-standing local tradition for over 350 years. “Watch the locals, they never sit down to drink, standing up is the traditional way” said Dirk my local guide as we stopped for a glass of the dark malty stuff outside one of the many traditional brauhaus’s in the heart of the old town.
Dusseldorf is nicknamed the ‘ten-minute city’ because literally everything is a ten-minute walk away. Exactly the kind of thing you would want to hear for a weekend break. So, buckle up and let me show you why I think Dusseldorf for a long weekend is a perfect fit.
Altstadt (Old Town)
Not seen as a major supply port, Dusseldorf was spared from heavy bombing during WW2 leaving much of the Old Town in its original state. I’ve always enjoyed strolling the streets in any historic old town and just getting lost amongst the twisty lanes. Dusseldorf’s Altstadt has these of course, but there’s plenty of squares and gothic churches too if that’s your thing.
Visit the Kreuzherrenkirche next to the city’s first monastery and you’ll really feel you’ve stepped back in time. The twisted tower of the nearby Church of Lambertus is an iconic city landmark. Look around a bit harder and you might even spot a section of the original Dussel river. The Rhine runs very close here too and along its banks you can stroll along passing numerous fresh fish restaurants and cafes.
I’ve already touched on the collection of ancient brewery inns, but locals joke about the old town having the longest bar in the world. This is really a collective term for over 260 pubs, bars and restaurants squeezed in here. You’ll also find sections where there’s just Spanish restaurants, or Italian, or Asian. You get the picture. While we’re on the subject of food one of my favourite spots of food heaven is found at Carlsplatz Markt, a farmer’s market of eclectic stalls offering all kinds of excellent hot and cold foods.
Make sure you get to see the two quarrelling men sculpture on Mittelstrasse which has become probably the most photographed work of art in the city. Signifying the generational gap of mutual misunderstanding between the swinging sixties and the war years. Which side would you pick?
Shopping
Konigsallee (King’s Avenue) is exclusive shopping heaven for well-heeled customers with very deep pockets. All of the famous high-end brands have retail outlets along this glamourous chestnut tree-lined canal and boulevard. At the top end is Germany’s oldest park, the very lovely Hofgarten Park (famous for the hundreds of green ring-necked parakeets that live there) and the equally famous Daniel Libeskind designed Kö-Bogen building off to one side, housing the Breuninger department store. A Dusseldorf version of Harrod’s perhaps?
You’ll also find a Tesla and Apple store there too. There’s no doubt the cafes that abound in Konigsallee are the perfect perches for people watching. Never a dull moment. However, along the roads running parallel to King’s Avenue are retailers perhaps a little more affordable for mere mortals.
Music and Art
Music and art have played a huge part in shaping Dusseldorf since the globally recognised Royal Art Academy was established here in 1773 by Carl Theodor. It heralded the development of many famous artists, musicians and photographers over the years. Today’s scene is just as vibrant and throughout the city you’ll find some quite extraordinary examples. Just drop down into the subway at Heinrich Heine Allee and you’ll stumble across all kinds of goodies designed by engineers and artists.
Sounds that follow you around or how about speakers buried inside red curtain art as you ride the escalators. There are at least six stations along the Wehrhahn Line that showcase their own individual characters through picture, sound, sculpture, and interactivity. All rather extraordinary.
Rudi, another of my local guides, took me on a revealing walking tour exploring Dusseldorf’s urban art. Famous taggers such as Fume, Tom71 and even Klaus Klinger the 70s godfather of graffiti are revealed in places I wouldn’t have given a second thought to.
Of course, once they’re pointed out to you, you start seeing them everywhere! Today, rather than criminalise them, the City turns a blind eye to it all, knowing deep down it’s all part of the city fabric and a tourist attraction to boot.
Little Tokyo
Another astonishing fact is Dusseldorf has Europe’s biggest Japanese community, and just taking a walk along Immermannstrasse (dubbed Little Tokyo) you’ll see all kinds of authentic Japanese retailers from furniture to food. This was once the centre of the German steel industry, hugely instrumental in the city being one of the first to be rebuilt after the war. If you adore Japanese food you probably won’t find better restaurants outside of Japan.
Mind you, there are also some fine Thai and Vietnamese restaurants too. I am still dreaming of a memorable Pho I devoured at Ha Noi Pho in Graf-Adolf-Straße 58.
The Zollverein Mine
Coal is probably the reason for Dusseldorf’s steel industry expertise and this UNESCO World Heritage Site mine complex just a little way out from the city in Essen is well worth a visit. The Zollverein Mine was one of the oldest in Germany dating back to 1851 and its astonishing Bauhaus design is something to behold. After it finally closed in 1986 this extraordinary complex has been immaculately preserved.
The huge heritage site of Zollverein, over 100 hectares, has preserved the surface plants from the mine and coking plant and made these buildings, which were actually built for machines only, accessible for visitors. It has also provided a unique home for creative studios and design companies, restaurants, and recreational walking and cycling paths. There are regular guided tours of the mine complex including the remarkable giant shafts where all the machinery has been frozen in time. This is a fascinating glimpse into the dawn of the Industrial Revolution and not to be missed.
My guide to Dusseldorf for a long weekend shows the city has much to offer, but we’ve only grazed the surface. There are tours delving into its prestigious music history, the Art:walk48 tour of its six art museums, and of course a ride up to the top of the Rhine Tower for a birds eye view of the city.
Worth a long weekend? Absolutely it is. Particularly if you are taking a Rhine cruise.
Images (C) Andy Mossack, Visit Dusseldorf and Zollverein image JochenTack.
Tell me more about Dusseldorf for a long weekend
Visit Dusseldorf for more information on the guide above and the various tours mentioned and what else to see and do.
The Dusseldorf Card Gives you free transport by bus and train around Rhine metropolis plus up to 100% offers on 70 tours and attractions. 1-4 day passes. From €13.90. Family passes available. If you fancy travelling further afield across the entire Rhine and Ruhr region buy the Dusseldorf Fan card instead (available at the same website.
The Zollverein Mine There are guided tours in English at weekends and any day for private tours. Prices are adults 11€, reduced 8€, children (5–17 years) 8€, family ticket 1 17€, family Ticket 2 27€.
Art:walk48 6 museums Kunstpalast, Kunstsammlung NRW K20 / K21, Kunsthalle, NRW Forum and KIT Kunst im Tunnel 25€ for 48 hours.
Recommended Hotel
The Moxy City. Excellent hip and bohemian vibe. Great lobby with 24-hour bar and good buffet breakfast. There’s also free storage lockers to leave your luggage if you are too early for check in or need a late departure. Close to all the main sights and adjacent to the subway entrance.
Where to Eat
The Carlsplatz Markt excellent street food market.
Zum Schlussel One of the famous brewhouses in the old town. Excellent food and of course the beers are epic.
Heimwerk famous for schnitzel in all manner of ways. Rustic trestle tables.
TAKUMI Right in the heart of Little Tokyo on Immermannsstrasse this is the place if you love an authentic Japanese Ramen.
