Andy Mossack goes hunting Christmas Markets in Carinthia but soon discovers wellness, lakes and alpine Advent fun.
There is a view in some quarters that Christmas markets have had their day. Forgetting tradition for a business opportunity. Way too many stalls cashing in on our festive moods with Chinese-sourced bric-a-brac and watered-down glühwein.
That might well be true in certain countries. But in central and eastern Europe, it is a different matter entirely. And my most recent experience in Carinthia is a perfect example.
Carinthia is relatively unknown in the UK. Set on the sunny south side of the Alps, it is Austria’s southernmost state bordered by Slovenia and Italy and known locally as Austria’s Lake District. It’s a region blessed with many mountain lakes of all shapes and sizes and so clean you can drink the water. Carinthia’s four largest lakes are the Wörthersee, Millstätter See, Ossiacher See and Weissensee, and there’s an added bonus: these swimming lakes naturally heat up in the summer to an incredible 28 degrees!
Come winter, and Carinthia welcomes the Christmas season with open alpine arms. Up here it is called Advent, a tradition encompassing religion, folklore and celebration with a passion that really warms the heart. So let me introduce you to Advent Carinthia, it’s Christmas but perhaps not as you know it.
Klagenfurt gets Festive.
Klagenfurt is Carinthia’s capital, just a 90-minute or so flight from London, it sits on the eastern shore of Lake Wörthersee ringed by forests and the foothills of the Glockner, Austria’s highest mountain. Given its history and very close borders with Slovenia and Italy, it should come as no surprise its population and culture are a melting pot mix of Slovenian and Italian while the historic old town is filled with stylish renaissance buildings and 57 arcaded courtyards no less.
There’s a bustling food market every Thursday, Friday (organic) and Saturday with Italian and Slovenian farmers coming across to join the locals in selling their own regional produce.
More surprisingly for a small city, there’s even a grand theatre cum opera house celebrating emperor Franz Joseph’s 60th Jubilee. For a bird’s eye view, try climbing the 220 ancient spiral stone steps up Klagenfurt Parish Church. Speaking of stone, a window into the city’s historical wealth can be seen by the volume of Carinthian marble wherever you look. Just take a peek at the marble road kerbing close to the theatre!
But the beating heart of Klagenfurt is Neuer Platz the main square, dominated by the statue of the city symbol, the giant mythical Lindwurm dragon/serpent. The tail is so big it has been used by people to sit on throughout the centuries and replaced twice when Russian and Allied soldiers sat on it after liberating the city during WW2.
This is where you’ll find the main Neuer Platz Christmas Market; over 50 stalls offering everything from artisanal hand-carved nativity figures to Innkeepers offering Carinthian regional food and drink. Not a watered-down glühwein in sight! It’s seasonally atmospheric with crackling log burning pit fires, fairy lights twinkling in the trees, the town hall façade lit up with projected illuminations, and Carinthian choirs performing on stage.
Over in the Lendhafen canal district, the new cosy Hafenkistern market on weekends offers an entirely different experience. Stalls line both sides of the ancient canal, with the equally ancient church looking down on proceedings from its lofty perch. The reflections of the lights on the canal water, the illuminated church and the crackling logs from the fire pits provide a magical advent atmosphere. Artisans are at work here: an ironmonger beats out hot metal festive shapes, a wood smith shows off his many percussion creations. Fragrances of scented candles and cinnamon mulled wine are in the air while the 3 Musketieres brass band entertain us with a mix of traditional and modern tunes.
You’ll find a few other small advent markets dotted about Klagenfurt’s squares and courtyards, well worth an exploring stroll.
Katschberg Advent Trail
Katschberg is an alpine ski resort sandwiched between Carinthia and Salzburg, a little off the well-known European ski holiday radar, but very popular with locals. Traditional chalet style lodging, plenty of locally sourced food and some wonderful horse-drawn sleighs to ferry you around. December heralds the start of the ski season up here, but it also marks the opening of the resort’s annual Advent Trail Walk.
A magical mountain festive adventure almost 2,000 metres up where the whole family can walk a 2K circular lantern-lit gnome path around the snow-covered Gontal valley. Along the way you can keep warm by sipping a hot fruity tea from the provided thermo cup and top it up with steaming refills from wood-fired stoves at numerous pit stop stations. Pop into hay huts to hear traditional Advent songs and stories and even pet a few farm animals. Then there’s the music. The deep bass notes of alphorns reverberating a lament around the valley, or perhaps a brass band performing Christmas carols. Trust me, this is light years away from any tacky Christmas markets you might have encountered. Totally enchanting.
Wellness on Lake Millstätter
On the way back from the mountains of Katschberg a relaxing stop off at the thermal waters of the Millstätter See bathhouse is a must do. This state-of-the-art wellness centre is perched right on the lake shore and offers some stupendous panoramic views across Carinthia’s deepest lake and the necklace of mountains behind. There is much to do inside and out, with a thermally heated outdoor infinity pool, lake swimming, and sun beds to relax in set amongst manicured gardens.
Whilst inside, a full spa theatre awaits; four different sauna cabins, a tepidarium (warm room) a brine steam bath and a full menu of massage therapies to heal your mind, body and soul. The relaxation lounges are a real highlight, plenty of panorama to gaze out at and quiet solitude for reflection.
Dressing gowns and towels are supplied, and the dress code is so relaxed you can enjoy a lunch or dinner at the inhouse Café l’Onda while still in your dressing gown!
Lake Wörthersee
No visit to Carinthia’s Christmas markets would be complete without experiencing the headline act that is Lake Wörthersee, Carinthia’s biggest lake stretches almost 17 kilometres from Klagenfurt in the east to the Bay of Velden at its western end. Velden has enjoyed a storied past as a luxury spa town and the huge SchlossHotel dominating the waterfront is a glimpse into its wealthy history. The Advent celebrations are in full swing here too with a clutch of pretty huts and a huge floating wreath with four giant candles ready to be fully illuminated come nightfall.
But what better way is there to experience the size of the lake than by enjoying a leisurely boat ride to another Advent experience at Maria Wörth, a place of pilgrimage on a peninsula about halfway around the lake surrounded by plenty of impressive lakeside villas courtesy of Carinthia’s well-heeled citizens. There are two churches perched here – Saints Primus and Felician at the top and the Winterkirche beneath it. With the relics of saints Primus and Felician interred here the church has become a destination for pilgrims. But it is a romantic spot without a doubt, and very popular for weddings as you might expect. There’s a small Advent market by the waterfront set around a medieval courtyard.
A more exciting adventure awaits not far from here atop the Pyramidenkogel mountain. The 100 metre-high Pyramidenkogel Observation Tower is said to be the highest wooden tower in the world, and it has a visitor platform at 83 metres. You can either walk up the 420 steps to the platform or take the elevator. When you get up there, you’re rewarded with an astounding view of the entire lake and the surrounding countryside. But perhaps even more thrilling is the ride back. A spiralling heart stopping 66-metre-long slide down inside a steel tube claimed to be the longest slide in Europe! Of course, I had to try it out and completed it in a thrilling 21 seconds.
For the more fainthearted the elevator is the other option of course.
My final Christmas Market is here too. Plenty of artisanal products and local food to enjoy despite the occasional screams from intrepid sliders.
Carinthia has been a total joy to uncover. The authenticity of its Christmas markets and its people is undeniable. I’ve been seeing it with its winter coat on, but I have no doubt that in summer it remains just as appealing, and I look forward to returning to find out. Why this charming corner of Austria remains relatively undiscovered by so many potential visitors is a real mystery.
Well, the cat’s out of the bag now, so hopefully problem solved.
Picture credits Helge Bauer, c-arnold_poeschl, Michael Stabentheiner, Gert Steinthaler, Gerald Ramsbacher, Franz Gerdl, Andy Mossack.
Tell me more about Carinthia’s Magical Christmas Markets
For more information on what to do in Carinthia, Klagenfurt and Katschberg please go to Visit Carinthia Lake Cruises Advent Carinthia for Christmas Markets, and Visit Klagenfurt for more about Carinthia’s capital. Millstätter See Bathhouse
Ryan Air operates regular flights to Klagenfurt from London Stansted. Please visit Klagenfurt Airport for information on all flights to and from the capital.
Getting to London Stansted
Stansted Express runs every 15 minutes between London Liverpool Street and Stansted Airport. Book online in advance and pay from just £9.90 for a one-way ticket. For the cheapest tickets, book direct at www.stanstedexpress.com
Where to eat
Restaurant Felsenkeller Princs Restaurant Bierhaus zum Augustin Das Kulinary Restaurant l’Onda
Where to stay
Select Hotel Moser Verdino Hotel Bacher am Katschberg Hotel Ibis Styles
