Anthea Gerrie takes a delicious Browns Covent Garden afternoon tea without a five star price tag.
I used to think of it as the country cousin come to town – Browns, the casual Victorian eatery whose Oxford branch, one of the originals half a century ago, was the only place we could afford to dine out when we were living there, poor as church mice.
But handsome listed buildings have grown the chain from the original seven in university towns to a nationwide chain whose historic London flagship has made Browns one of the poshest central London addresses for lunch, brunch, dinner and now, afternoon tea. A very sophisticated afternoon tea a country mouse would hardly recognise, as it happens, but church mice should note it is a bargain at less than half the price of the afternoon teas served at the capital’s five-star hotels.
Browns Covent Garden, one of a handful in the capital, is actually the former Westminster County Court, and its grand new Afternoon Tea Room takes pride of place in the largest of the building’s Grade II listed courtrooms. The pleasure starts in ascending to the room itself, enjoying the handsome building whose several floors still boast original features like Victorian tiles, its high-ceilinged rooms now enhanced, thanks to a £2.5m refurbishment, with huge chandeliers which point up period fixtures like the giant clocks and wealth of wood panelling. Picture windows overlook St. Martin’s Lane, once the most fashionable thoroughfare to Covent Garden before becoming a lynchpin of London’s theatre district.
But we’re here for the tea, with some unique offerings including the lobster brioche rolls dressed with a Sicilian lemon mayo which particularly drew my attention – and it’s superb, even if it is quite a tiny bite. Our appetites have been piqued for this and other savouries by a flute of Moet pink or white Champagne – or in my case, the cocktail alternative, a really superior cosmopolitan made from scratch in front of us at the bar and topped up with a big splash of bubbly. The base notes were certainly rarefied – discarded grape skin vodka and a touch of both Chambord and Cointreau shaken in alongside the usual cranberry and lime juice.
The savoury course is augmented by other treats including smoked salmon rillettes on toasted rye, cheddar, apple and pickle Ploughman’s sandwiches and a cured salt beef sandwich with a horseradish cream which was not quite present enough – we asked for more to smear on our beef, and found it delicious.
The warm scone course, always my favourite, comprised both plain and fruit-studded homemade versions served with proper clotted cream and blackcurrant jam, an interesting variation on the more workaday strawberry. After all of this, the mini-cakes seemed a tad superfluous, though the blackcurrant Victoria sponge offered more of that delicious jam. The mini-lemon meringue tart was delicious, but the carrot and orange cake and Black Forest chocolate mousse a tad too sweet for all but the sweetest of sweet teeth.
Nothing is more important for afternoon tea than a really good quality loose-leaf brew, and Browns did not disappoint with Good Earth planet-conscious tea. Both Earl Grey and English Breakfast are available in the leaf, and for those wanting less caffeinated, fruitier hot drinks to wash down their lobster roll and scones, Elderflower & Pear, Ginger, Turmeric & Lemon and green tea are all available in high-quality bags.
This being the age of inclusivity, Browns offers bespoke vegetarian and gluten-free afternoon teas approved by Coeliac UK alongside the usual options, believing, quite rightly, that this is the big British treat meal of the day every visitor should be able to enjoy, whatever their allergies or preferences.
Country cousins please note – afternoon tea is also available at the 26 restaurants throughout the Browns group, and as a bonus, costs £5 less than in the capital. Even a poor church mouse can manage a slap-up afternoon tea in the best of British brasseries!
Tell Me More About Browns Covent Garden afternoon tea
Browns Covent Garden 82-84 St. Martin’s Lane, London WC2N 4AG
Tel: + 44 207 497 5050
Browns Covent Garden Afternoon tea £30, £40 with Champagne
