Amy McPherson offers up her personal guide to Bolzano.
A direct flight with SkyAlps from London Gatwick takes you to Bolzano, the heart of the Italian Dolomites in two hours. Visit for a long weekend, or as a quick stop before heading into the mountains and see this fascinating city layered with history and an unique identity. Here is my quick guide to Bolzano.
“Don’t get me wrong, I am very proud to be an Italian,” said Dr. Friederike Wielander, who is an art historian and a walking tour guide in Bolzano. “But for us in Bolzano, and the rest of South Tyrol, we feel we have a different identity than the rest of Italy.”
It was mid-July, and it was very hot. I had not anticipated such heat in the middle of the mountains. As it turns out, Bolzano is among the hottest places in Italy.
The city is spectacularly wrapped in a basin among the Dolomites – the pale – mountains. Many travellers must come through Bolzano when they wish to travel beyond into the depth of the Dolomites, and mostly to stop by the Archaeological Museum to see Bolzano’s most famous figure: Ötziyet the Iceman.
However, there is a lot more to this small mountain city, which remains its authentic self with two simultaneous identities that has been embraced by generations, and it is already evident in the use of the city’s name.
A city of multiple identities
Bolzano, is also referred to as Bozen in German, and is also referred to as Balsan in the local dialect of Ladin. Historical conquest saw Bolzano settled by the Bavarian, then ruled by the Bishop of Trent before being exchanged through various powers until the Austrian Empire took hold. World War I saw Bolzano annexed by Italy under Mussolini, when he implemented an Italianisation program on the population. This is when things started to get complicated.
“You see, before this, we spoke Ladin or German for Centuries. Suddenly, our language was forbidden, and everyone had to speak Italian. Italians from other parts moved here and they were given jobs first. It was not the most happy time for the native Tyrolese,” explained Friederike. “Now, there is harmony, but we still keep all the identities, which makes us feel different.”
We are standing in the middle of Kornplatz near Piazza del Grano (Grain Square), which is the oldest part of the city that hasn’t been destroyed by war. Friederike drew my attention to the wall of 13th Century Casa della Pesa, one of the oldest buildings still standing.
“See the painted mural of the coat of arms? You see there are three? On the right, you have the a Tyrolean eagle, the left, the Austrian flag and at the bottom, the coat of arms for Bolzano.”
Shopping at the Medieval Arcades
I followed Friederike deep into the old town centre, along Via dei Portici, a shopping street lined with stores, whose glass display windows seem to spill out onto the sidewalk. It seems, Friederike and I share the same taste in shoes, as we stop in front of Rizzolli Shoe store, a shoe manufacturer since 1870, to admire a pair of lovely yellow flats.
“In the medieval times, the merchants used to live in the level above, store their goods inside the buildings and then sell them under these arches,” Friederike said as she pulled me towards the entrance of the store. “And you’ll see, these shops look small from the outside, but they are really long, leading towards the street behind them so they can sell on both sides”.
Resisting the temptation of shoes, she politely asked the shop keeper to show us the original vaults under the shop. These medieval buildings have been built in multiple layers, and being in one is like entering the labyrinth. The basement is dark and the walls are still the original stone wall. A row of ham hung off their hooks along one end of the ceiling, and dozen bottles of wine on their racks below.
“Oh, yes, I use this also for my own enjoyment!” The shopkeeper laughed. “This is how people would have used this cellar in history, I am just recycling the idea!”
Back in bright day light, we follow the flow of shoppers and find ourselves browsing the street market selling flowers, cured meats, fruits and vegetables and cheese from green wooden wagons. All around us are medieval buildings of vibrant colours, some sporting original paintings that has been uncovered through restorations.
Arriving at the Bolzano Cathedral, whose tiled roof resembles the roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna. Bolzano’s Austrian past is evident everywhere, and I can now see why, people here do feel just a little differently to the rest of Italy.
A hidden garden for the princess
Across from the cathedral on Piazza Walther is a modern building of no distinct use. There seems to be a café on the roof, but no other major feature to lure me to explore, until Friederike intervenes.
“There is a very special tree you must see,” she said, once again, beckoned me to follow.
We enter through sliding glass doors into a lovely courtyard area. Other than a cleaner mopping the floors, we were the only people here. In the middle of the courtyard is an old ginkgo tree, and from here, I could see I was wrong about the building. It was not indistinct at all, in fact, I was standing in the middle of the restored Palais Campofranco.
Built by Archduke Ranieri Joseph of Austria and his wife, Princess Elisabeth of Savoy in the 18th Century. The tree, significant to the couple, was entirely protected by the construction works required to restore and expand the grounds of the palace, creating a little hidden garden in the middle of the city to escape to.
Take your time in Bolzano
There were a lot more in Bolzano I wanted to visit. Time to visit inside of the churches, the museums, and perhaps find more of these little ‘secret’ hideaways, for Bolzano is filled with passageways between buildings, little courtyards and eat a local bauerntoast. Alas, I was late for a garden aperitif date back at Parkhotel Mondschein and I couldn’t miss that. So as cliché as it sounds, I really will just have to come back.
Tell Me More About Bolzano
For more information on attractions in and around Bolzano, including booking a guided walking tour of the city, visit Tourism Bolzano-Bozan website
Go Cycling
It may not seem like it but Bolzano is one of Italy’s greenest cities, with most residents commuting by bike everywhere they go. In the city centre on cobbled streets, are people on bikes bumping along go about their daily activities. Hire a city bike and sightsee on two wheels, or get out of town to enjoy a ride along the river.
By the river there are many bike trails for a leisure spin, or for those more competitive minded, Bolzano hosts the annual Giro della Dolomiti event, which leaves from Bolzano to the dizzying heights of the surrounding Dolomites. https://www.girodolomiti.com/
Stay
A family run hotel that honours the history and culture of Bolzano, with comfortable rooms and a restaurant with outdoor garden seating for the warm summer months. 
Getting to Bolzano
FLY WITH Sky Alps from London Gatwick directly to Bolzano, the heart of the Dolomites. While the airline is small, the service is friendly and you’ll get a taste of South Tyrol as soon as you board, with complimentary wines from the region and the warm hearted welcome onboard. The landing and take-off from Bolzano Airport is spectacular.
