In this Flemish love affair, Andy Mossack is utterly seduced by the allure of Antwerp and Ostend.
Who would have thought it. Two quite different port cities yet both equally seductive. The medieval masterpiece that is Antwerp, still glittering with diamonds and art heritage but fast becoming Belgium’s capital of cool. And the glorious belle epoque beauty of Ostend, Belgium’s art deco city by the sea. Blessed with miles of white sandy beaches, and its own extraordinary artistic heritage including past residents James Ensor and music maestro Marvin Gaye.
But this was no lengthy courting. It was simply love at first sight. You may well be sceptical, but I’m confident that after following in my footsteps, you too will fall head over heels in your own Flemish love affair.
Antwerp
Centraal Station. Belgium’s railway cathedral.
The most impressive way to meet Antwerp is to arrive by train. I had taken the Eurostar from London to Brussels and then a short local service on to Antwerp (a free onward local service is normally included in your Eurostar ticket.) Antwerp’s stunning stone and glass Centraal Station dates from 1899 and dominated by a huge Pantheon-esque dome, the golden elements and mish mash of medieval and baroque, all combine to justify its railway cathedral nickname.
The MAS. Connect to the world.
The unmissable MAS Museum (Museum aan de Stroom – Museum by the Stream) sits regally on a platform overlooking Napoleon’s Dock. A ten storied architectural masterpiece with metre-high glass walls, the museum is about global connectiveness in all its forms, through storytelling about people, objects and culture. There are permanent galleries on each floor linking the city to stories from around the globe, as well as various temporary exhibitions. For me, the permanent ‘City at war. Antwerp, 1940-1945′ gallery was particularly memorable, observing the horrific Nazi occupation through the eyes of over 300 local residents who also donated personal items to bring it all to life.
The bird’s eye view from the roof offers a spectacular 360 panorama of Antwerp, the river Scheldt and its famous docks.
Tour the KMSKA. Masterpieces everywhere.
The Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp (KMSKA) is now open once more following a €multi-million facelift. This is of course one of Antwerp’s crown jewels. Over seven centuries of art resides here, including 111 masterpieces. Flemish masters such as Rubens, Jan van Eyck, and impressionists including Rik Wouters and Ostend’s James Ensor. Plenty of modern works on show too.
While I was there two sisters, (famous art restorers) were patiently working on Rubens’ monumental Enthroned Madonna Adored by Saints masterpiece in the free -to-watch Rubens Studio. The painstaking two-year project entails revarnishing the painting and re-stretching the canvas. Fascinating to watch them work on a specially constructed scaffold.
Museum Plantin-Moretus. A time machine to the dawn of book printing.
While we’re about art, this too is relevant. This museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the only one of its kind, is the original home and workplace of Christophe Plantin who founded a 16 th century book printing business when the industry was in its infancy. It was subsequently to become one of the most advanced book printers in the world. This is a fascinating stroll through history in the very place it was created. The original presses, the oldest in the world, still sit silently in the printing room, as does the big oak table in the next room where the sub editors sat looking for spelling errors.
You climb all over the mansion learning how book and colour printing developed through the centuries. A perhaps dry subject turned into an unmissable visit.
Cool Live Music at Zoo Antwerp
A summer tradition is to head for the Belle Epoque terrace of the Zoo between 4.30pm and 8.30pm and enjoy a few drinks and snacks while listening to free live music from under the Victorian kiosk.
Chocolate heaven at Chocolate Nation.
On the opposite side of the square to the Zoo, Chocolate Nation is the ultimate chocoholic destination, a museum of Belgian chocolate. From the African jungle to the port of Antwerp you’ll learn about how cacao is grown and delivered and then of course, discover why Belgian chocolate is so famous by tasting it. In liquid form direct from taps!! They have their own chocolatiers in house and working in the open kitchen. It is chocolate heaven.
The very weird Illusion Museum
Tucked away off the Meir traffic free shopping boulevard, this little place warrants a visit because of its quirkiness. Take pictures of yourself in upside down rooms and shrink to thumb size. It is fun to discover how illusion works.
Ostend
A couple of hours from Antwerp by train to the fresh North Sea air and art deco of Ostend is nostalgia for me. My parents were frequent visitors here in the 60s and 70s when it was considered to be The Continent to UK visitors. It was, and thankfully still is, a real belle époque beauty.
The Crystal Ship. Fantastic Street Art
Not a ship at all, but a city-wide celebration of street art, pioneered by promotor Bjorn Vanpoucke. Each year world famous artists are invited to contribute to Ostend’s Street art scene with hand-painted murals and installations. I took a street art tour with Valerie de Ketelaere from Bazaar Trottoir, whose examples and stories brought the whole concept to life for me. Tiny hidden works or giant wall covers, all of them contribute to a colourful and quirky festival. See if you can spot the tiny, suited figures on ledges dotted around town by Isaac Cordal.
The James Ensor House. Ostend’s art genius.
Ostend’s own impressionist master lived here above his mother’s curiosity shop at 29 Vlaanderenstraat until his death in 1949. Almost immediately after his death it was turned into a museum, still looked after by his faithful man servant Gust Van Yper until he too passed away. Today the new museum, opened in 2020, is built from adjoining properties to the Ensor house. You can visit his lounge and dining room, both frozen in time, wander round his mother’s curiosity shop, and also enjoy added interactive presentations about his work and life.
Stroll the regal Albert 1 Promenade and beaches.
This is impressive. I’m not exaggerating when I describe this as Belgium’s riviera. Favoured by royalty and celebrities, this seven-kilometre promenade along Ostend’s dreamy white sandy beach is lined with hotels, restaurants and bars. The huge casino at the halfway point offers a glimpse of Ostend’s fashionable past but keep walking east and you’ll get to the vast walkable sea wall complex, most often or not populated with seals sunning themselves along the walls edge. The beaches are huge, nearly 80 metres wide, very clean, and lined with small coloured rental huts.
All Aboard The Mercator
Belgium’s most famous ship is hard to miss. Just a few minutes’ walk from the station. her lofty triple masts offer an iconic landmark along Ostend’s quayside where she’s been moored since 1962. Built in 1932, she played an important role in training cadets for Belgium’s merchant fleet on voyages circumnavigating the world. She’s now a museum ship and provides a fascinating and authentic insight into life at sea.
Walk in the footsteps of Marvin Gaye
A little-known but important piece of music history is Motown superstar Marvin Gaye lived in Ostend for two years, culminating with him writing and recording Sexual Healing, his biggest-selling record. Forced to stay in Europe following tax evasion charges by the IRS in the US and fighting cocaine addiction, he was invited by Belgian concert producer Freddy Cousaert to come to Ostend and perhaps rediscover his career.
With the support of Ostend Tourism, this self-guided Marvin Gaye Midnight Love app takes you on a 90-minute tour in the footsteps of Gaye. From his apartment on the beach promenade at Residence Jane where he wrote Sexual Healing, to the basketball court and boxing club where he shot the video. You can read my review of the Marvin Gaye Midnight Love Walk here.
As you can perhaps begin to understand, my Flemish love affair with Antwerp and Ostend is not just some idle notion, but a full-on romance. As I said, it was love at first sight but in saying this, I’m more than willing to share with anyone else who feels the same way. All it takes is one look and you’ll be smitten.
Images (C) Andy Mossack, frederik beyens, Woodmonkey, Jeroen Broeckx, Nick Decombel (Ensor House and Mercator) , Arne Deboosere (Ensor Lounge)
Tell me more about visiting Antwerp and Ostend
Antwerp
Visit Antwerp offers more information on the attractions featured here and the rest of the city as does Visit Flanders
Antwerp City Pass Use the Antwerp City Pass to explore Antwerp, it’s your key to the city. With this pass you get free entry to 16 museums, 3 historic churches and 3 attractions. To get around quickly, you can use public transport for free and get access to cheap rental bikes. You also get a a significant discount on attractions, sightseeing tours, souvenirs and sweets. 24 hours: €45, 48 hours: €55, 72 hours: €65.
The MAS, Chocolate Nation, The KMSKA Museum Plantin-Moretus, Zoo Zoomabar Illusion Antwerp
Recommended Restaurants
Hoffy’s In the heart of the diamond district, Hoffy’s is a traditional kosher restaurant run by the Hoffy brothers that has been a local institution since 1945.
Restaurant RAS Excellent chic restaurant dining waterside right on the river Scheldte.
Best Belgian Fries Fritkot Max Forget any fancy restaurants, the best chips in Antwerp are in this little kiosk at Groenplaats, at the foot of the old town cathedral.
Where to Stay
The Hyatt Lindner Hotel is in an excellent position right next to Cantraal Station and near all Antwerp’s major sights.
Ostend
Visit Ostend offers more information on the attractions featured here and the rest of the city as does Visit Flanders.
James Ensor House, The Mercator, The Crystal Ship, Marvin Gaye Midnight Love Walk
Where to stay in Ostend
The Hotel Du Parc will provide a wonderfully elegant art deco base, just 100 metres from the beach and adjacent to Leopold Park. Dating back to 1929, its 2023 refurb has retained its golden age splendour, and added chic and contemporary interiors to its rooms. The downstairs brasserie is pretty good too.
Recommended restaurants in Ostend
Paroles Paroles A fab tapas and cocktail restaurant run by wife and husband Crist and Piete, located in the smart new Sky Tower complex opposite the Quay.
Villa Ostinato. This beautiful restaurant with rooms, is a passion project from start to finish by owner Marie. Lovely courtyard garden with tables in summer.
Cultuur Cafe A terrific relaxing lunch spot inside the former De Grote Post Office, which has been transformed into a theatre and arts venue.
