Sarah Kingdom offers her personal Guide to Northern Sri Lanka And Discovers Jaffna’s Resilient Heart, Trincomalee’s Timeless Harbour And Wilpattu’s Wonderful Wildlife.
My most recent trip to Sri Lanka started, odd as it may sound, with a cocktail party on a houseboat in the middle of Zimbabwe’s Lake Kariba and a serendipitous meeting with Sheri Fazleabas, owner of A&S Signature Journeys. Sri Lankan by birth, Sheri and I got to talking about my last visit to Sri Lanka, six months earlier.
After listening to my itinerary, she informed me that there was a lot more to be seen and experienced in her birth country, especially in the north! She graciously informed me that she would plan a northern Sri Lanka itinerary for me that would give me a real look at some of the spots that aren’t yet on the usual tourist track.
The north is a world away from the rest of Sri Lanka. Closer to southern India than to Colombo, the region was settled early on by Tamil migrants from southern India and has retained a unique character and culture, one which owes more to Hindu India than Buddhist Sri Lanka.
There’s surprisingly little information out there about northern Sri Lanka. 26 years of civil war, that ended in 2009, took an undeniable toll on the entire region and meant it’s been left off most visitor’s itineraries. Today it’s still a little battle-scarred, but most of the military presence has gone, leaving behind friendly, welcoming people, who are delighted to see visitors and thrilled to show them around.
Here are the highlights of my journey through northern Sri Lanka, and I can say without hesitation, that all these places should definitely be on your travel bucket list:
Jaffna
Jaffna is Sri Lanka’s most northern city and is quite unlike anywhere else in the country. This vibrant city offers a fascinating insight into Tamil culture, as well as many intriguing reminders of its colonial and civil war past.
Known in Tamil as Yalpanam, Jaffna was the capital of a Tamil kingdom for centuries before it was conquered by the Portuguese in 1619, and it still has a distinctive Tamil charm. A bastion of Hindu culture and tradition, Jaffna is a great place to learn about Sri Lankan Tamil culture. If you scratch the surface of Jaffna you’ll find both a warm welcome and a wealth of history.
Jaffna Fort – Immediately south of the modern city centre lies the town’s immense fort, the largest Dutch fort in Asia. Overlooking Jaffna lagoon, the pentagonal-shaped Jaffna Fort has been fought over for centuries – built by the Portuguese, captured and expanded by the Dutch and later surrendered to the British, without a shot being fired.
Sadly, having survived two hundred years without seeing action, after independence the fort became a focal point in the country’s civil war, with government forces using it as an encampment. During this time the fort’s outer defences were repeatedly bombarded, by both sides, and the old Dutch buildings inside, were destroyed. Today you can wander its walls, gateways and moats, see the barracks that once housed thousands of troops and civilians, and view the city from its ramparts.
After the war concluded in 2009, authorities began the painstaking task of restoration. Restoration of the coral, stone, brick and mortar walls is still ongoing.
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil – Nallur Kandaswamy Hindu Temple is one of the most impressive Hindu temple complexes in the country. Dedicated to the god Murugan and crowned by a towering god-encrusted, golden-ochre gopuram (entrance tower) this is one of the most significant Hindu religious complexes in Sri Lanka
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The temple dates from 1734, and its huge compound houses decorative brass work, larger-than-life murals, pillared halls and a colonnaded holy pool. Cacophonous pujas are held seven times a day and there are several friendly priests, some of whom speak English, who can answer questions about the temple and its traditions. The temple is the focus of the enormous and spectacular Nallur Festival, which runs for 25 days in July and August, with parades of floats and displays of self-mutilation by entranced devotees.
Jaffna Public Library –Jaffna Library was burnt down by pro-government mobs in July 1981, during the build-up to the civil war. The library, inaugurated in 1841, was an important Tamil cultural and historic institution, and its world-renowned collection, which was destroyed in the fire, included more than 90,000 volumes, including irreplaceable Tamil documents. The library was one of the first major buildings to be rebuilt after the ceasefire.
The Clock Tower – An architectural curiosity, the spindly Clock Tower has a Moorish domed top, giving it a somewhat North African vibe. It was erected in 1875 to honour a visit by the Prince of Wales. In 2000 the now King Charles, then the Prince of Wales, donated the current working clocks, to replace those damaged in the war.
Mantiri Manai – Set back from the road, it’s easy to sense the beauty that was once Mantiri Manai. Completely derelict now, with walls covered in graffiti, the building is a holder of secrets. There’s much debate about its background. Some say it dates back to the Jaffna Kingdom and was used as guest quarters for visiting ministers, others place it in the Dutch or Portuguese colonial era, while others claim it was built as recently as the 1890s.
Whatever its history, this dilapidated mansion seems to encompass both colonial and Hindu architecture and has been taken over by the Department of Archaeology for restoration.
Kadurugoda Temple – Believed to be a part of an ancient Buddhist Monastery that Buddha is said to have visited during his travels through Sri Lanka, Kadurugoda Temple is another site worth visiting in Jaffna.
Point Pedro – A trading post during pre-colonial and colonial times, Point Pedro is the northernmost point of Sri Lanka. Remnants of old buildings scattered around the town give you a glimpse of its once-vibrant past. Primarily a fishing village now, with gentle waves and clear blue water, on a clear day can see all the way to the Indian coastline, about 65km away.
Trincomalee
Heading 4 hours south, down the east coast, Trincomalee, with its prominent deep-water port, is a major cultural centre for Sri Lanka’s Tamil minority. Trincomalee reputedly once hosted such luminaries as Ptolemy and Marco Polo and in later years, both Dutch and British traders colonised the area, leaving behind several landmarks.
Fort Frederick – Historically of strategic value to colonial powers because of Trincomalee’s natural deep harbour and Sri Lanka’s proximity to India, Fort Frederick was built by the Portuguese in 1624, allegedly from the debris of an ancient Hindu temple. The fortress is still in use today by the Sri Lankan military
Swami Rock – Walk to the northern tip of Fort Frederick and the cliff known as Swami Rock, a sheer drop of 122m into the Indian Ocean (also known as Lover’s Leap). Perched on the summit of the rock is the Thirukoneswaram Hindu Temple; its site is believed to have been a major religious shrine dating back more than two millennia.
The Tree of Fertility – Hindu women come from great distances to hang cradles on this sacred tree, in the belief that this sign of faith will help them to become pregnant.
Pigeon Island – Take a 10-minute boat ride out to Pigeon Island, for excellent snorkelling around the formation which was once used by the British Navy for gunnery practice. Explore the natural saltwater pools among the rocks that are the breeding site of the Blue Rock pigeon.
Whale Watching – Go whale watching, as the waters around Trincomalee are famous for sightings of various species, including the common blue whale, the Bryde’s whale and the Sperm Whale.
Wilpattu
At 130,000 hectares, Wilpattu National Park is Sri Lanka’s largest and oldest wildlife sanctuary. Wilpattu means ‘natural lakes’ in Sinhala and ’10 lakes’ in Tamil, and lakes are definitely what you’ll find here! The entire park is dotted with large, sand-rimmed natural lakes known as “Villus”. The Villus collect rainwater and attract wildlife, especially during times of drought. Visitor numbers to the park are low, giving the park a genuine sense of wilderness.
This is a place for the more dedicated safari-goer and you may have to work a little harder to spot the wildlife. You’ll (hopefully) find an array of animals here, including leopards, sloth bears, spotted and sambar deer, wild pigs and crocodiles. Birders in particular will love Wilpattu with its abundance of dry forest, water and even coastal birds. Keep your eye out for the colourful junglefowl – the ubiquitous national bird that looks like a psychedelic chicken.
Wilpattu is not only famous for its wildlife but also for its archaeological and historical importance. In about 500 BC it’s believed that Prince Vijaya from India and his followers landed in Thambapanni, in what is now the North West corner of Wilpattu. He married Princess Kuveni of Sri Lanka, and together they established the Sinhalese kingdom. The ruins of their palace are just one of 68 archaeological sites within the park.
There’s no better time to visit Sri Lanka’s north. Temples, wildlife and beaches are just a handful of the things this part of the country has to offer. If you’re a history buff and a lover of off-the-beaten-track travel, this is the perfect time to see more of this tiny island nation than the surf breaks and the tea plantations that are on most travellers’ itineraries.
One day this part of Sri Lanka may look much like the more well-trodden part of the country, but for now, the north is wild, colourful, unexplored and well worth a visit.
Tell me more about this guide northern Sri Lanka
If visiting northern Sri Lanka is not part of a general tour of the country, you can start from the Jaffna Peninsula, the northernmost point of the island, by taking a flight from Colombo to the Jaffna International Airport in Palaly. From here, work your way down to Jaffna and its nearby cities by public bus, or a private vehicle. You could also opt to take the train, or bus to the north. Alternatively, book a private driver through your travel planner – this is definitely the easiest and least stressful way to get there.
Visit Sri Lanka Tourism discover things to do and places to see, as well as some ideas and help with planning your travels or alternatively, I highly recommend you book your trip with Sheri Fazleabas, an expert in all things Sri Lankan, at A&S Signature Journeys.
Where to stay in Jaffna
Set in two acres of lush gardens, The Thinnai was Jaffna’s first five-star boutique hotel. Offering 39 suites and warm, northern Sri Lankan hospitality, the hotel is great for travellers who want to unwind in what can be a slightly chaotic town.
The hotel strives to be environment-friendly and there’s a special emphasis on sustainability. All fresh food, including milk, fruits and vegetables, used in the kitchen are obtained from its organic farm, located just a few km from the hotel.
The Thinnai 86, Palaly Road, Thirunelveli, Jaffna, Sri Lanka
E: info@thethinnai.com / sales@thethinnai.com T: + 94 21 20 30 400
Rates for two people, in a one-bedroom superior suite, start from £96 for room only, £107 including breakfast, £127 for half board and £147 for full board. Prices range up to a two-bedroom luxury suite, for two people, on full board, which is £207.
Where to stay at Wilpattu.
Sprawled across 3.5 hectares and adjacent to Wilpattu National Park, Thamaravila Wilpattu is perfectly positioned for visits to the park. Thamaravila is glamping in style – 5 luxury tented chalets, built on stilts with thatched roofs, wooden decks and plunge pools. The exteriors are designed to blend into the jungle, while the interiors combine contemporary comfort with convenience.
Safaris can be arranged into Wilpattu and Nadeesha Deemantha, the resident safari guide, is both extremely professional and knowledgeable.
Thamaravila Wilpattu Thamaravila, Rookada Wewa Road, Horuvila, Wilpattu, Sri Lanka
E: reservations@thamaravila.com T: +94 717 94 88 98
From £350 (US$430) per person, including breakfast, or £800 (US$977) per person fully inclusive of meals and activities.
