Lynne Coates experiences three very different Christmas Markets in the Baden-Württemberg region of south-west Germany.
I’m not usually enthused by Christmas markets as one seems very much like another, but the three I visit in Germany’s Baden-Württemburg region prove to be far more exciting than I could possibly have imagined.
Esslingen
Arriving in the historic town of Esslingen, we meet Tom, our guide, who, we are surprised to learn, is a retired aeronautical engineer from Los Angeles. To help us gain an insight into this medieval town, he takes us up to Esslingen Castle, an impressive fortress with panoramic views of the town and hillside vineyards. Dating back to 1314, it was never a residence, but was part of Esslingen’s fortifications. The Hochwacht, (watchtower), distinctively protruding from the castle wall, can be seen clearly from the town below. From there, “Ropers Walk”, a narrow, stone staircase, takes us down into the market square and the Esslingen Medieval Christmas Market.
I quickly appreciate why this market is ranked among the top 25 in Europe. Surrounded by half-timbered medieval buildings, the setting is perfect. Some 200 stalls, all of timber construction with identical lighting, maintain the market’s original appearance. Merchants (some in medieval costumes) offer hand- crafted goods, locally created jewellery, woollen clothes, accessories and homewares, plus a choice of traditional German food and drink. However, it’s the historic, cultural presentation that makes this market unique. Jugglers, fire eaters, magicians, storytellers, minstrels and fortune tellers evoke medieval life.
There are even ancient hot-tubs to experience (if you’re brave enough!). Combined with aromas of Glühwein*, spices, and smoky fires, this market feels truly authentic. Wandering through the stalls, along the cobbled narrow alleyways in this Medieval town, proves to be a magical experience.
Esslingen is a fascinating town, and Tom enthusiastically takes us through the historic centre, pointing out important medieval buildings as we make our way down to the Rossneckar and Wehrneckar Canals, to see the ancient waterwheels and bridges. The Inner Bridge, built in 1286, formed part of the trade route from Flanders to Italy and is one of the oldest stone bridges in Germany. It was here that merchants would trade their goods; these days it’s an upmarket shopping district.
In the town centre, Tom explains his passion for the architecture of the ‘Church of our Lady’, one of the earliest Gothic churches in Germany, with magnificent portals on either side, dominating the skyline. We end our tour with a glass of sparkling rosé at the town’s historic Kessler Winery, where the first sparkling wine production in Germany began.
Stuttgart
A half-hour train ride from Esslingen brings us to Stuttgart the capital of Baden-Württemberg, where we meet our guide, Sabrina, for a walking tour through the heart of the city centre. With many buildings destroyed during the Second World War, much of the city has been rebuilt, with wide pedestrian streets that are easy to navigate. We pass by the Opera House, the renaissance- style Old Castle (Altes Schloss) and the baroque New Castle (Neues Schloss), now a museum.
We end our tour in Palace Square (Schlossplatz), where many of the city’s activities take place and which is the starting point of Stuttgart’s Christmas Market. One of the oldest and largest Christmas markets in Germany, with around 300 traders, it fills the city centre. Beautifully decorated stalls spread out along the thoroughfares with handmade gifts and foodie treats. The roofs of the stalls are works of art, many having displays of life-like animals.
A huge Christmas pyramid, around ten metres high, and a Ferris wheel dominate the square, together with illuminated sculptures of a horse (the emblem of Stuttgart), a Mercedes-Benz and a Porsche (both produced in Stuttgart). The Mercedes-Benz Museum and the Porsche Museum, a short distance out of town, are well worth a visit.
Ludwigsburg
Saving the best till last, we visit the Baroque Christmas Market in Ludwigsburg, (about a half-hour drive from Stuttgart). Among the most popular Christmas markets in Germany, it is smaller than the others we have visited, but so much prettier. Set in the elegant baroque main square, and nestled between two magnificent baroque churches, this market is Christmas-card perfect. Soaring gold angels, with sparkling wings, look down on the stalls beneath them.
Around 150 stalls offer locally made crafts, clothes, jewellery and toys, some decorated with shiny stars, and tempting gingerbread hearts (for 3-5 euros they make perfect take-home gifts). Food stalls here offer more than the usual meaty German fare, and I was thrilled to find Raclette (traditional Swiss melted cheese), served hot, with crusty bread for dipping in the pot of glutinous deliciousness – a perfect accompaniment to my hot Glühwein.
Many tourists visit Ludwigsburg to see the grand Residential Palace, known as the German Versailles, one of the largest baroque palaces in Europe, and it’s well worth taking a tour. During the Christmas season the palace gardens (the ‘Blühendes Barock’), are transformed, with illuminated paths and light installations, an immersive experience for families to enjoy.
If you love Christmas markets head to Baden-Württemberg, where you will find the best of the best, and, whilst there, discover some of Germany’s most fascinating towns.
*When you buy a mug of Glühwein in the market, it is common practice to pay 2 euros for a deposit on the mug, which you can either return and get a refund, or keep. I kept one from each market, as souvenirs!
Tell me more about Christmas Markets in Baden-Württemberg
Whilst in Baden-Württemberg I stayed in the Leonardo Hotel in Esslingen and Nestor Hotel in Ludwigsburg
Christmas Markets in Baden-Württemberg run from November 27th- December 23rd.
I flew into Stuttgart with KLM
