Fi Quinn visits Épernay’s Habits de Lumière, Champagne’s ultimate Christmas Light Trail
Winter is taking hold as the chill of December sets in. A festive buzz fills the air as we approach the Avenue de Champagne. People bustle everywhere.
“This is going to be magical,” says our guide, leading us down the one-kilometre street. Grand mansions, now the region’s prestigious Champagne Houses, line the UNESCO-listed avenue.
We’re here to experience Champagne’s major Christmas light trail: Épernay’s Habits de Lumière. The three-day event held every year in December transforms these historic wine mansions and avenue into a winter wonderland of twinkling enchantment.
Nothing says celebration better than Champagne, and here in December the temperature is perfect for the sparkling liquid, always best served chilled.
Épernay Museum at Château Perrier
We’re early to the festivities, so our first stop is the Museum of Champagne Wine and Regional Archaeology sitting near the start of the Avenue de Champagne.
The collection tells the story of the Champagne region, housed in the elegant Château Perrier and its grounds. Once the home of Perrier-Jouët Champagne from 1852 to 1854, this Versailles-inspired building sets the scene, right down to its original underground chalk cellars.
Here we begin our journey learning about Champagne wine production, from the history of the distinctive chalk terroir that gives champagne its crisp acidity and unique character to the production methods which have barely changed over the centuries.
The history behind Avenue de Champagne
Strategically built near the train station, the avenue rose to prominence in the late 17th century with its monumental architecture. By the 18th century, it became the address of choice for Champagne pioneers like Dom Pérignon, Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët and Churchill’s favourite, Pol Roger.
Now, this UNESCO World Heritage site houses the offices of many grand Champagne houses. Most are closed to the public on regular days, so if you’re visiting any other time, you’ll have to head out of town or to a nearby bar for a sip of the bubbly stuff
A new generation of Champagne growers
Today, it was still too early to experience the lights.
So we headed to La Cave de l’Avenue at the entrance to the sumptuous Avenue de Champagne. Behind a discreet black-painted door at number 5 near the tourist office, this restored three-storey townhouse hides guestrooms and a spacious wine bar/restaurant.
With no reservations, as soon as the doors opened, the room was packed with hungry locals who filled the parquet-floored room with large, chatty groups. We ordered huge platters of mini toasts topped with generous portions of roast duck.
But it’s Champagne that is a big part of the draw to this bar. Taken over in 2017 by the Bergère family – Brigitte, André and their children Adrien and Annaëlle – La Cave de l’Avenue exemplifies the new generation of Champagne growers. They prioritise sustainable and eco-friendly viticulture, producing exquisite Champagne under the A. Bergère label.
Sitting in front of the restored fireplace, we ordered a couple of bottles of A. Bergere Champagne Blanc de Blanc Brut to accompany our food. The bubbles pinged in our mouths. A little-known fact about champagne is that it’s just as healthy for your heart as a glass of red. Here, there’s no such thing as too much champagne.
The lights begin: a kaleidoscope of colour
Warmed up, we headed on to the street. Épernay’s Habits de Lumieres is a free event and attracts both locals and out-of-towners keen to try out Champagne in a festive, party atmosphere.
As twilight descends, the Avenue de Champagne transforms. The illuminations and light displays on this UNESCO World Heritage street run right down to the 66-metre-high tower of Champagne Castellane.
Projection mapping turns these historic facades into living canvases. Falling snowflakes, animated scenes and pulsating geometric patterns are set to music and dance across the spectacular contours. This year’s celebration pays tribute to both human and natural forces in winemaking, from the growers to the essential pollinating insects that make wine cultivation possible.
Large flowers line the pavements, while others glow in the dark on a roundabout. Floodlit courtyards come alive, some open to the public with DJs and pop-up Champagne bars while others are illuminated with mesmerising light shows and storytelling.
At De Venoge, swirling kaleidoscopes of blue and silver flocked patterns blanket the cobblestones and facade, making it hard to distinguish people as they merge into the scene. Pol Roger hosts an ice rink with a Champagne bar, crepes and a melodic jazz quartet. Leclerc Briant turn their outdoor space into a mini Christmas market complete with ski gondola and delicate strings of white lights. Further down, igloos have been turned into mini domes of pleasure with armchairs and table lamps.
It’s one of the only times that the hordes can get a rare glimpse into the inner sanctum of these doyens of fizz. Swept along the street, this is more than a light trail. This is Champagne at its most radiant celebrating its sparkling magic brought to life.
Tell me more about Épernay’s Habits de Lumière
Épernay’s Habits de Lumière is 3 days of festivities in the capital of Champagne. The free three-day festival takes place on the second weekend in December with evening light shows and Champagne bars on Friday and Saturday night. On Sunday, the festival ends with a fun parade of over 400 vintage cars, all over 35 years old.
It’s the perfect time for a pre-Christmas visit to Épernay and offers the ideal opportunity to source champagne directly from producers for the festive season and beyond.
Getting There:
Épernay is in the Marne department of northern France, 130 km north-east of Paris.
By Train:
From Paris: (including Charles de Gaulle airport) to Épernay, the journey takes approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes.
From London: Take the Eurostar to Paris, then transfer by train to Epernay.
By Car:
Le Shuttle: For those travelling from the UK by car, take the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle to Calais, France. From Calais, drive south for 3 hours on the A26 motorway to Épernay.
By Plane:
The nearest major airport is Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport. From there, you can travel by train to Épernay.
