Helen Warwick stays in Georgian splendour of the Buxton Crescent Hotel, a perfect base for exploring the England’s Peak District.
When a hotel is unveiled after a whopping £70 million transformational makeover, you want to take a look. The Buxton Crescent Hotel – a grand Georgian crescent-shaped hotel in the centre of the town – opened to high acclaim in the thick of the Covid era in October 2020. An opening that was hoped would bring renewed interest to this town squirrelled away in the Peak District. Where you can stalk walking trails, wild swim beneath waterfalls and mooch around the supremely pretty towns of Bakewell, Castleton and Eyam, all fuelled by pub lunches and homemade scones.
The result of this ambitious restoration project? The Buxton Crescent Hotel is undoubtedly the grand dame of the Peak District. Just stand in the shadow of the crescent and stare up at the arches, the gaping windows and stone railings sweeping across its roof and you’ll truly feel the enormity and opulence of the place. All of which was originally brought to the town by the 5th Duke of Devonshire, William Cavendish in 1780s in his mission to transform Buxton into a fashionable spa destination where guests could wallow in the town’s thermal waters. It may have taken a lot longer than Cavendish intended, but it seems this Georgian masterpiece is finally having its moment.
I arrived with a friend, promising her a weekend of spa fun, great food and no children (or husbands). She didn’t need much persuading. And after a swift check-in in the cavernous reception, we scurried upstairs and to our Junior Suite on the second floor. Interiors are classic and timeless, with huge beds, marble bathrooms, carpeted floors, and gorgeous Georgian architectural details. There are thick duvets on the beds, a roll-top bath opening to views of the crescent and towards the Pavilion Gardens, and chandeliers dangling from the high ceilings.
This is exactly the sort of place you want to land in when you’ve spent an afternoon wild swimming in the waterfalls at Three Shires Head (25 minutes away) or scrambling up Mam Tor and The Great Ridge (20 minutes away), all muddy and cold and rosy-cheeked from the fresh air. That’s the thing about the Peak District. There is so much natural beauty to be found, from easy-going strolls from a car park to hardier climbs through tough terrain. And it’s all so accessible for city dwellers desperate to break away from the buzz with Leeds to the north, Birmingham lying south, Manchester to the west and Sheffield pitched to the east.
Everything is set up at the hotel to unfurl and unwind. And after dumping our stuff, it was almost time for our spa treatments and we slipped on our robes and headed to the vast spa that’s quietly making a name for itself.
Headed up by European spa specialist, Ensana, the entire set-up is a wonderland of wellness. A slickly-oiled and thoughtfully designed machine, where robe-wearing spa-seekers slip from steam room, to sauna, to relaxation pool and back again and marble corridors lead to the tucked-away salt cave and mud rooms. Guests gather on beds around the thermal pool, dangling their legs in the famous mineral-rich waters drawn deep from the earth below Buxton, and gaze up at the vast stained-glass atrium sending shards of dappled light across the original Victorian tiles. And if you follow the staircase up, you’ll pop out at the steamy outdoor pool with whirlpool jets and views across the architectural crescent.
Treatments unfold in the quieter, relaxation zone, and I had signed up for the Comfort Zone Sublime Skin Active Lift – an invigorating facial, designed to pump some life into my sagging cheeks, jowls, chin and neck. It was all gorgeous and I emerged shiny-faced, droopy-eyed and grinning, ordering a quick glass of fizz which I drank by the outdoor pool. A truly magical place to reset and reboot.
Later, we headed for dinner in The Dining Room – an-art-deco-inspired-space with low-lighting and a focus on outstanding ingredients and a decadent menu of classic British plates. Indulgence is the theme here: kick off with a couple of oysters and dig into steaming bowls of mussels, goat’s cheese mousse, or the outstanding Shetland scallops in a salt and pepper chicken and coriander broth. I could’ve easily guzzled this broth directly from the bowl. Mains include salt-aged sirloin of beef, market fish of the day or Herdwick mutton. But I ordered the flame-grilled hake in a flavour-packed chorizo cassoulet with a dollop of aioli – all of which was finished off in few mouthfuls.
From jaded city dwellers to burnt-out parents, the Buxton Crescent is a soothing antidote for anyone in need of a full mind and body reset. Go now to soak up the stark beauty of the Peak District and indulge in the deeply spoiling spa, the sophisticated interiors and decadent menu.
Tell me more about the Buxton Crescent Hotel
Buxton Crescent Hotel, The Crescent, Buxton SK17 6BH
T: 01298 808999
A one-night stay costs from £185 for two sharing a double room, including breakfast and use of the spa and pools.
