Andy Mossack eats at The Woodspeen and discovers a culinary masterclass in more ways than one!
There is something rather enchanting about a woodland setting on a summer’s evening. It get’s that bit better when you have enough of it to have your own gourmet restaurant, chefs vegetable and herb garden and cookery school too.
Such is life at The Woodspeen, a place of culinary magic tucked away on prime woodland hidden beyond the narrow twists and turns of the west Berkshire countryside, but within striking distance of Newbury. Those in the know might speak of it in hushed tones, perhaps even reverence, about creations of wonderment happening there for at least a decade.
But fear not, this is not the dark arts. Far from it. It is simply another genius offering from Westbury Street Holdings, a company stewarded by hospitality legend Alastair Storey. It’s a fast-growing restaurant group that also includes The Clockspire in Somerset, The Sparsholt in Oxfordshire, The Boxford in Newbury, and The Braywood opening near Bray later this year.
Central to The Woodspeen complex is the restored 19 th century farmhouse, cosy and thatched from the outside, yet inside, almost tardis-like, (that’s a Dr Who reference for anyone reading this unfamiliar with the TV series) lies a magnificent space topped by a lofty vaulted roof, a good deal of Scandi timber and a floor so polished you can see yourself in it.
But we’re getting ahead of ourselves.
Outside the floor-to-ceiling patio glass a generous patio space awaits replete with tables and umbrellas, while beyond that, a lawn covets a couple of art pieces; one of them a remarkable classic Aston Martin racing car made entirely from used machinery parts.
It’s the perfect outdoor spot to sip an early evening sundowner, so we do just that, enjoying a Soft Bramble made from 25 Yards gin (so called because the botanicals for it grow in the chefs garden exactly 25 yards from the restaurant), cranberry mint and Chambord foam (£14). I sip this excellent brew and take in the view of rolling Berkshire hills in the distance. And it seems, many of our fellow diners are doing the same, enjoying casual drinks and classic mixology from head bartender Francesco Marone.
A fence gate sign at the garden’s edge points to an intriguing woodland path, while hidden around the side of the property is the chefs garden and kitchen, the beating heart of Woodspeen’s culinary magic.
However, not everything is kept away from prying eyes. Back inside the restaurant the open kitchen offers opportunities to see chefs at work under the watchful eye of talented head chef Sam Brennan and executive chef Peter Eaton. It looks a slick and well-oiled operation and I’m looking forward to seeing it in action.
Despite The Woodspeen’s reputation for fresh seasonal fine dining and impressive wine list, it offers outstanding value set-menu dining Tuesday to Friday for lunch and Tuesday to Thursday for dinner. Two courses for £35 and three courses for £40. Tempting as this is (it’s a Wednesday evening and the choices were well worth debating) we’re sticking with the main menu and going for for a deep dive.
Much as I like to evade bread and butter pre dinner, the crusty oven-fresh sourdough and sun-dried tomato hummus dip with lemon olive oil proves far too irresistible to avoid while awaiting our starters.
My shameful lack of self-control evaporates the moment our starters are delivered. Mrs M’s Isle of Wight gazpacho (£14) more than justifies the Isle’s reputation for producing world-class tomatoes, while the feta mousse and wild garlic pesto contained within a crown of crispy onion are perfect accompaniments. My pea and garden mint risotto (£17) is a delightful surprise. More a country style soup than risotto, the generous chunks of ham hock and sun-dried tomatoes are a wholesome support act. It is deliciously moreish but a little too generous as a starter, but far be it for me to complain about that.
By now the kitchen is going full throttle as most of tonight’s guests are seated both inside and out. I sneak a peek at our fellow diners who are getting heartedly stuck into their mains, while servers with trays heaped with food held aloft like triumphant trophies, sweep by as tables are skilfully negotiated. It’s an impressive sight.
And with perfect synchronicity, our mains materialise. With numerous choices available to us including scorched and poached turbot, line caught seabass and lamb chop to name a few, we both decided on steaks.
An Angus rib eye (£41) for Mrs M, with a portobello mushroom ragu, beef fat triple cooked chips and a green peppercorn sauce. The rib-eye sits, exquisitely cooked, in the exact centre of the plate, topped with said mushroom ragu and watercress. Just a simple invitation that translates as ‘eat this please’.
My fillet (£49) has a touch of old school ‘Rossini’ which traditionally comes topped with a slab of pate. On this occasion, the Rossini part is contained inside a crusted pasty, alongside beer braised carrots, pesto, and king oyster mushrooms. The fillet sits on a bed of spinach and comes with a pot of red wine sauce. It is a juicy tender cut, perfectly cooked as requested, but for me the pasty is an unnecessarily filling addition for such an already hefty dish. Still, another example of generous portion sizes here at The Woodspeen.
Speaking of traditions, the apple tarte tatin sharing board (£29) Is something of a Woodspeen dessert institution, and I spied more than a few of them whizzing past our table during our dinner, so we indulge the tradition. Its arrival is pure restaurant theatre, freshly baked to order and regally resplendent on its own wooden board. It’s accompanied by its courtiers, vanilla ice cream, fudge, and a jug of hot vanilla custard.
It is an absolute triumph. Beyond delicious. Whole caramelised apple halves and crumbly crust. A total knockout and a worthy finale to a memorable culinary adventure.
The Woodspeen is the perfect example of fine dining at its best. Top notch service, an outstanding location, and generously portioned. A genuinely fantastic food experience.
All food images (C) Andy Mossack
Tell me more about The Woodspeen Restaurant
The Woodspeen Restaurant, Lambourn Rd, Woodspeen, Newbury RG20 8BN
T: 01635 265070 E: hello@thewoodspeen.com
The Set Menus
Enjoy lunchtimes Tuesday to Friday from 12pm to 2:30pm and for supper Tuesday to Thursday from 6pm to 9.00pm (except bank holidays). Two courses for £35 and three courses for £40.
The Woodspeen Cookery School
There are all kinds of courses available, from classics to French to butchery from £115 pp. Courses can be booked here.
