Rupert Parker Looks For Kicks On Route 66 In his guide to Missouri
I’m driving the length of Missouri, in search of Route 66, which was invented here almost 100 years ago. This East West highway, stretching 2,448 miles from Chicago to Santa Monica was originally designated as Route 60. Unfortunately Oklahoma had already grabbed this number and wasn’t going to budge. Missouri knocked heads together at meeting in Springfield in 1926 and Route 66 was born.
St Louis
My journey begins starts in St Louis, the largest city between Chicago and Los Angeles on Route 66. Here the iconic Gateway Arch stands 192m tall, symbolizing the city’s pivotal role in westward expansion. It’s impressive enough, dominating the Mississippi riverside, but amazingly, the giant structure is hollow inside. A tram travels up through the curve, dropping you off at the top for stunning views of the city and the river.
Nearby, in the heart of downtown, the City has transformed the derelict International Shoe Company building into a wonderland of creativity and exploration. It opened in 1997, the brainchild of artist Bob Cassilly who used salvaged materials to create a fantasy playground for visitors of all age. Outside is MonstroCity, a multi-story outdoor gym constructed out of old airplanes, fire trucks, and a castle turret.
The National Blues Museum, a few blocks away, explores the history and impact of the music. It does this through a remarkable collection of photographs and videos and is well worth a visit.
On the city’s outskirts, founded in 1859, the 32 hectare Missouri Botanical Garden is one of the oldest in the United States. One of the garden’s most iconic structures, the Climatron® is a geodesic dome that houses a lush tropical rainforest with more than 2,800 plants. Winding paths lead through dense foliage, including towering palms, exotic flowers, and rare orchids.
Since its 1926 inception, Route 66 underwent different routings through the city but eventually it was a victim of its own success. The boom in car journeys in the 1950s led to President Eisenhower creating the Interstate Highway System and, by 1972, I-44 had replaced Route 66 across Missouri. It was finally decommissioned in 1985.
St Charles
Rather than taking the Interstate, I set out west by following the Missouri River to St Charles, the 3rd oldest city in the state. From 1821 to 1826, it served as the state capital and the first government met in buildings on Main Street. These have now been restored and visitors can tour the historic rooms and learn about the early political struggles and triumphs of Missouri.
In fact, Main Street is one of the best preserved historic streets in the country. It’s lined with charming 19th-century buildings, now housing an array of boutiques, antique shops, and restaurants. Don’t miss the Soda Museum which houses an impressive collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia, including vintage bottles, advertising posters, and vending machines.
Hermann
Still heading along the river, an hour’s drive brings me to Hermann, at the northern limit of the Ozark Mountains. It was founded in 1837 by German settlers and the town’s 19th-century architecture reflects that heritage. They planted vines in the gently undulating countryside and today the region is home to Missouri’s best wines.
The wine trail includes seven family owned vineyards, with Stone Hill Winery offering tastings and tours of its cellars. Hermann is also a stop on the much longer biking and hiking Katy Trail. It stretches almost the length of the state along the Missouri River. You don’t have to complete the entire 240 mile route in one go – you can tackle different sections by hopping on and off the St Louis – Kansas City Amtrak train.
Springfield
Next, I head south to Springfield, the birthplace of the “Mother Road”, as John Steinbeck called it in “The Grapes of Wrath”. Surviving examples of the city’s Route 66 heritage can be found throughout the town and the History Museum on the Square is a good place to start.
Inside, a 20m long display with timeline and map traces the road’s history, showing its classic diners, motels, natural wonders and petrol stations. There’s also an interactive map of Springfield with pop-up vintage photos of places juxtaposed with views as they appear today.
Around town, the 1929 Rockwood Motor Court Tourist Camp is the oldest operating example on Route 66, and the Rail Haven Motel has been open for business since 1938. Well worth a visit is College Street Café, a restored diner, serving quintessential highway dishes, and don’t miss the Route 66 Classic Car Museum next door.
Even better, you can also drive west on part of the original road, now quiet as it’s been bypassed by the Interstate. A steel girder bridge leads to Gay Parita, a fully restored service station with vehicles and paraphernalia of the era. Slightly further on is Spencer Phillips 66 Service Station which also includes a general store, cafe and barber shop.
Branson
From here, I head south into the heart of the Ozarks to Branson. It’s famously known as the “Live Music Show Capital of the World” with more than 50 theatres staging 100 shows a day. Take your pick of country, gospel, rock ‘n’ roll and Broadway-style productions.
Yet Branson’s natural surroundings also prove an ideal playground for outdoor enthusiasts. The pristine waters of Table Rock Lake are perfect for a variety of activities such as boating, fishing, and swimming. Dogwood Canyon Nature Park offers over 4000 hectares of forest hills and valleys with trails for hiking, biking, and horse riding.
For thrill seekers, the Shepherd of the Hills Adventure Park has the Vigilante Extreme Zip Rider, descending over half a mile at speeds of up to 50 mph. More family friendly is Silver Dollar City, a 19th century theme park with over 40 rides, live entertainment and craft demonstrations. Highlights include the thrilling Time Traveller roller coaster, and the Marvel Cave, a natural underground wonder.
Kansas City
I drive back to Springfield where Route 66 carries on to Oklahoma and head north to Kansas City in the far west of state. It’s experiencing something of a rebirth with a new sense of optimism throughout. Downtown is sprouting hotels, Main Street has a new free trolley and the riverside is undergoing huge redevelopment.
The most impressive example is the Rock Island Bridge, a 1905 railway crossing over the Kansas River. It fell out of use in the 1970’s, rusting away, until Mike Zeller had the idea of siting a restaurant there. The project grew and when it opens later this year it will be a unique entertainment complex providing music, dining, coffee shops and bars. It’s the first of its kind in the world and will definitely become a must-see.
The Kansas City Zoo has also just added a state-of-the art Aquarium on its huge site spanning over 80 hectares. Home to more than 1700 animals, there are distinct sections allocated to different regions of the world. Africa is particularly impressive, featuring a savanna where elephants, giraffes, zebras, and antelopes roam freely. Even better a chair lift allows you to complete an African Sky Safari.
Back in town, the 1926 Liberty Memorial Tower, commemorating those who served in WW1, is an iconic structure that rises 66m above the city. Built into the hill below is the National WW1 Museum, opened in 2006, and a glass bridge suspended over a field of 9000 red poppies takes you into two massive galleries. The first provides an overview of the war’s causes whilst the second explores the war itself. Weapons, uniforms and interactive displays bring the history to life
Sitting just below the Memorial is Union Station, opened in 1914, and once one of the busiest stations in the country. It’s huge and features a majestic Grand Hall with 29m high ceilings and three 1,500kg chandeliers. Like Route 66, railways were also casualties of the Interstate Highway System and the station closed in 1985.
In 1999, it reopened, completely restored as a bustling cultural centre with museums, exhibitions and restaurants. You can even take a train again and there’s a twice daily service to St Louis.
Missouri is one of those destinations that doesn’t make for instant recognition, but mention Kansas City and St Louis and people understand where you’re talking about. Majestic wines, stunning countryside and great music are some of the reasons for this guide to Missouri. And, if you’re lucky, you might get some of those kicks on Route 66.
Tell Me More About Insider Guide To Missouri
Delta flies from London Heathrow to Kansas City and St Louis, with a change in either Atlanta or Detroit.
Missouri has information about the state.
St Louis
Explore St Louis has information about the city.
St Louis Union Station Hilton cleverly uses the old station.
St Charles
Discover St Charles has information about the city.
Defiance Ridge Vineyards outside St Charles has good food to pair with their excellent wines.
The Main House in St Charles serves good food in a historic setting.
Hermann
Visit Hermann has information about the area.
Murphy’s B&B is in a heritage building in the historic centre of Hermann.
Fernweh Restaurant in Hermann is in a distillery with a good selections of whiskeys.
Springfield
Springfield has information about the city.
College Street Café is a typical Route 66 Diner in Springfield.
Branson
Explore Branson has information about the area.
The Chateau on the Lake in Branson is a luxury hotel with amazing lake views.
Buffalo Bar at Top of the Rock in Branson has fine dining with stunning sunsets.
Kansas City
Visit Kansas City has information about the city.
Hotel Phillips makes a good base in downtown Kansas City.
Chicken and Pickle is a good for burgers in Kansas City.
The Town Company has fine dining in Kansas City.
Green Dirt on Oak has genuine farm to table food in Kansas City.
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