Petra Shepherd finds the excellent Valamar Argosy Hotel is just a short drive from the busy centre of Dubrovnik.

Croatia’s stellar Dalmatian coast has long been seen as an alternative contender to Italy’s Amalfi and as my taxi makes a tight cliff top hairpin turn onto an even tighter road clearly never intended for motor car use, the difference is obvious to me. No traffic. Just peace, solitude and birdsong; the timeless backdrop of old town Dubrovnik lying far below, just across the bay.  This quiet narrow lane, the only way in to Villa Dubrovnik by road, is an ideal introduction to a world class retreat so perfect, it almost beggars belief.